Whale Watching Trip out of San Diego

"We owe it to our children to be better stewards of the environment.  The alternative? - a world without whales.  It's too terrible to imagine."

Pierce Brosnan



Harbor with San Diego Skyline Behind





San Diego skyline from our boat

Yesterday was one of those great crisp winter days we have here in San Diego during the winter months. The sky was not blue, it was full of fluffy clouds, and there was no chance of rain. It was somewhere in the high 60's, a perfect day to be out on the water in a boat. A really sunny day would not have been as good, it is harder to see whales on a sunny day, and harder to get good pictures. So, it was the perfect day for whale watching. and my husband and I went out, on a ship from the Point Loma area.
 

The trip was a Christmas present from my husband. Like last year, I asked him to give me "things to do" instead of more "stuff". He gave me this trip, as well as a Segway tour and Bon Jovi Concert tickets. Those two things are still on the horizon. This was for now, as the whales only migrate south in December and January. They head north later in the spring. Those are the only two options to see them in San Diego.
 

Sea Lions  and a bird, napping

This has been one of the best years for seeing the whales, according to the newpaper, and the boat owner confirmed that. They have had some really good sightings everyday. I knew I would probably not get as good a look at a whale as I did last year when I kayaked 2 miles out and a whale came up about 20 feet in front of us. I was eye to eye with that whale, and maybe a little too close. That was an exciting trip. But it was also a lot of work getting out that far. This was going to be a little more laid back.

We set out about 10 a.m. with 20 to 30 people on board.  As we were heading out the bay to open seas we passed an area where boats can pull in and get bait for fishing.  The place was crowded with sea lions, taking a nap.  We cruised slowly past and watched them.

Me on the Sea Adventurer 80
Whale watching

Then we reached the open sea and we all started searching the horizon for signs of whales.  We were out for about an hour and still hadn't spotted them.  The captain kept saying that there were whales ahead, he knew they were there.  He said we were headed north and would meet up with them as they were heading south, right towards us.  We kept looking.  Finally, there was the shout, "thar she blows".  Someone had spotted a spout of water from a whale.  We kept heading that direction.  There were several other boats gathered around the area, all watching a mother and baby whale who were making their way south to Mexico.  We joined the group. 



Mother whale with her baby

Whales usually come up to breathe every 6 minutes.  While up, they break water about 4 times before they deep dive down again.  So we followed the mother and baby whale as they broke the surface.  When they deep dive their tails come up, and then they are gone.  We followed along the direction they were headed, south.  We kept our eyes open to see where they would come up.  After 6 minutes the shout went up and we could see them out a distance to our side.  They did their 4 short dives and then did another deep dive, tails up.  We were all enjoying watching them, and taking pictures.

We slowly followed them like this all the way back down the coast.  At one point though, the 2 whales came up right in front of the boat, so close I was almost afraid we'd run over them.  That was really exciting and when I got my best pictures of them.

A pod of dolphins that was just below
 the bow of the ship

We spotted them several times after that, and continued to follow them.  Finally we were back at the entrance to San Diego bay and had to say good-bye to our whales.  We had a great day out on the water, and we saw not only whales, but also the sea lions and several pods of dolphins.  The whales will now enjoy several months of warmer water in the Baja waters in Mexico.  They go there to give birth, and to feed.  We think the baby whale was a yearling, and the mother was probably on her way to give birth to a new baby.  Anyway, they were almost to Mexico when we left them, so today they may be heading into the bay where they will stay for several months.  They have had a long journey and I'm sure they will be glad to be where they can rest and feed.

Mother whales tail as she deep dives

There were quite a few people on board our ship who were on vacation from other areas of the country.  I know there was a man from Ohio, and a couple from Minnesota, and 2 women from San Francisco.  Whale watching is a popular thing to do all over the world, and if you are traveling somewhere where they have whale watching trips, it is a fun thing you can do for a day of your vacation.  Or if you live here in San Diego or the west coast, this is the time of year to go.

This bird was waiting for us back in port

If you would like to read about the kayak whale watching trip I did last January, go to: http://havelistwilltravel.blogspot.com/2012/01/my-sea-kayaking-adventure.html

Tipping While Traveling

They have cradled you in custom, they have primed you with their preaching,

They have soaked you in convention through and through;

They have put you in a showcase; you're a credit to their teaching -

But can't you hear the Wild? - it's calling you.

Let us probe the silent places, let us seek what luck betide us;

Let us journey to a lonely land I know.

There's a whisper on the night-wind, there's a star agleam to guide us,

And the Wild is calling, calling...let us go.

~ The Call of the Wild (Last Verse) - Robert Service ~

Wild Goose Pagoda, Xian, China

For me, knowing how much to tip in various countries of the world, is one of the most confusing parts of travel.  In the United States you are expected to tip for almost everything anymore.  But in some countries it is not a common practice.  However, the more Americans go to those countries and tip, the more they expect it of us, even though they don’t expect their own people to tip.  When we were in China we were told that no one tipped at restaurants, but that may change as they become more accustomed to Americans who have become so used to tipping.  We did tip our tour guides, which was expected.  What we need to do when we travel is find out what the custom of that country is before we go, and try to tip as they do.  But even tour books vary on what they put in for rules on tipping.

Tipping in Europe isn’t as automatic and generous as in the U.S. and it varies from country to country.  But in general, I have found that these rules work for most of Europe:

Restaurants:  Tipping is an issue only at restaurants that have waiters.  If you order at a counter you do not tip.  Some restaurants in Europe include the tip on your bill, and it will usually be 10 to 15 percent.  Do not tip more if it is added to the bill, unless you received special service and want to reward that.  If it is not on the bill, then you should tip 10 -15 percent.  You should tip in cash and even hand it to the server if possible, otherwise they may not get it.

George having a beer at an outdoor restaurant in Hvar, Croatia

Taxis:  To tip a cab driver, you should figure 10% and then round up to the next Euro.  If they haul your luggage out or rush you somewhere then give them more.

Special Services:  Tour guides at public sights will expect a tip.  You are never obligated, but if you feel they have done a good job, it is appreciated, so give them a couple of Euros.  At hotels, give the porter a Euro per bag for hauling your bags, and you should leave some change for the maid if the room was kept clean.  Some places will have a bathroom attendant who keeps the place clean and she will expect a small tip, usually some change is acceptable. 

Always pay tips in the local currency, as exchanging U.S. money is not practical, and most people would not have a way to exchange our coin.


 Euros

In general, if someone performs a service for you and does a super job, a tip of a couple of euros is appreciated – but not required.  When in doubt you can always ask the concierge at your hotel what the tipping policy is for that area.


Tipping in Australia is very uncommon, although as more Americans travel to Australia it is becoming more common.  Tipping is not really expected anywhere, and historically has not been the norm because basic wage rates and overtime payments in the hospitality industry have generally been protected so that workers are making a decent wage.  In more expensive restaurants tipping of 10% is always appreciated and is shared with the entire staff.  In bars, tipping is also not expected, although many people simply leave some of their coin change on the bar after picking up their drink.  As for taxis, people will often tell the cabbie to keep the change.  



If you are traveling anywhere in Africa, then tipping is important. For most porters, safari guides and drivers, tips make up a significant percentage of their salary. Over tipping is less of a problem than under tipping, especially given the economic stresses many working Africans are under to make ends meet, buy school uniforms, get decent medical care etc. The rate for tipping in Africa is similiar to what I outlined for Europe.

Waiter on a cruise

If going on a cruise, most cruises will tell you ahead of time what you should give as a tip, and it will automatically be added to your shipboard account which you pay at the end of the cruise. That tip is split between all of the people who served you on the cruise. Usually the rate is somewhere between $10 and $12 per person per day.  So for a week cruise for 2 people, you should figure a minimum of $140 for tips. There are some cruise lines who do not allow tipping, but the majority do, and even encourage it.   And since most cruise ships hire their waiters and stewards from countries such as the Philippines or other third world countries, they are paying them less than minimum wage, and those people rely on tips to get by.

Again, if you are in doubt as to what you should tip, ask the concierge at your hotel what the normal tipping practice is for the country you are in, they will usually have the answer.  Happy travels.

Destination - Rome

"While stands the Coliseum, Rome shall stand.  When falls the Coliseum, Rome shall fall.  And when Rome falls - the World." 

 Lord Bryon

Rome, Italy

When I was a child I knew I wanted to travel and see the world.  I knew there had to be more out there then this little town I lived in.  I hungered for the city, and whenever I could I would talk my parents into trips to the city near us, Portland.  But I read about other places in the world, and I told everyone when I grew up I was going to see those other places.  Top on my list was always Italy.  And for me, when I thought of Italy, I thought of Rome.  It seemed like one of the most exotic wonderful cities in the world. 

The Coliseum

I finally made it to Italy when I was in my 40’s.  It took me awhile, but we were finally able to put away some money and start traveling.  It was a wonderful trip, one I will never forget.  We did get to other places in Italy besides just Rome, and for anyone planning to go to Italy, I certainly recommend exploring other areas.  But we started our trip in Rome, and many people who do travel to Italy spend at least a few days in this city.  And there are so many things to do and see in Rome, it is certainly worth the time to explore it.  Make sure you schedule several days in Rome, you can’t see it in just one day.  Remember Rome wasn’t built in a day and shouldn’t be visited in a day either.   I would like to talk about some of my favorite things to see, and I will also talk about side trips one can take from Rome.

Inside the Coliseum
 

Coliseum  - It is the most extraordinary of all Rome’s monuments.  When I saw it the first time I knew I was really in Italy.  To me, it is Italy.  It is not just its size, or its amazing completeness after all the years, or the history of the place.   There is just something about seeing it, in person. This is where gladiators met in mortal combat and fought off hungry lions, two thousand years ago. 



 

The Vatican, St. Peter’s Basillica and the Sistine Chapel – The Vatican is the smallest sovereign state in the world.   Its 108 1/2 acres make it one-third the size of Monaco.  It has its own currency, postal service, passport, newspapers, radio station and railroad system.  Its population of less than 1000 consists almost entirely of Church personnel, Vatican administrators and representatives of international organizations. 

Outside St. Peter's Basillica

St. Peter’s Basillica, officially known in Italian as Basilica Papale di San Pietro in Vaticano and commonly known as Saint Peter's Basilica, is a Late Renaissance church located within Vatican City.  It was constructed in 1506.  I have been in some of the great churches in the world, and I have to say that this church out dazzles them all.  The exterior and the interior of the church are spectacular.  It is a must see.  You can climb to the top of St. Peter's, it is not for the weak of heart.  When we were there it was a very hot day.  We made the climb, but we were very hot and tired when we got to the top.  You can see all of Rome from up there, and I do think it was worth the climb.

**The Dress Code is strictly enforced at St. Peter's Basilica and the Vatican. No shorts, bare shoulders or miniskirts. This applies to both men and women. Even if you get through security, you will be turned away by the attendants at the door. 

 

Probably the most famous painting
 of the Sistine Chapel ceiling

Vatican Museums and the Sistine Chapel.   If you are going to go to the Vatican you should definitely see the museums and especially the Sistine Chapel.  You will need to purchase tickets to go inside, and there can be long lines.  There are tours available, or you can do it on your own, depending on how much time you want to spend.  The highlight is the wonderful Sistine Chapel ceiling.  The Sistine Chapel ceiling, painted by Michelangelo between 1508 and 1512, is a cornerstone work of High Renaissance art.   You are not allowed to take pictures of any kind inside the Sistine Chapel.



Trevi Fountain

Fontana di Trevi - The Trevi Fountain is Rome’s largest and most famous fountain.  The flamboyant baroque ensemble was designed by Nicola Salvi in 1732 and depicts Neptune’s chariot being led by Tritons with sea horses – one wild, one docile – representing the moods of the sea. The water comes from the aqua virgo, a 1st-century-BC underground aqueduct, and the name Trevi refers to the tre vie (three roads) that converge at the fountain. The famous custom is to throw a coin into the fountain, thus ensuring your return to the Eternal City. According to the same tradition if you throw in a second coin you’ll fall in love with an Italian, while a third will have you marrying him or her. And in case you were wondering, the €3000 or so that is thrown away on an average day is collected and donated to charity.



The Spanish Steps, where everyone goes to meet

Piazza di Spagna and the Spanish Steps – This area has been a magnet for foreigners since the 18^th century.  The piazza was named after the Spanish Embassy.  At the foot of the steps, the fountain of a sinking boat, the Barcaccia, is believed to be by Pietro Bernini.  I loved climbing to the top of the steps and seeing Rome from the top, and the steps are certainly a place to people-watch, as everyone gathers there.  A little disappointing to me was the McDonalds right next door, and the trash people leave all over the steps.
 

The inside of the Pantheon

Pantheon – I was probably most impressed with this building.  It has to be ancient Rome’s most astonishing building. The Pantheon is widely praised for its feats of architecture and concept of space.  This Roman temple has been standing for over 2000 years, and it is a unique, unparalleled experience to enter its great doors and have your vision directed upwards, just as it would have been for the ancient Romans.  The dome was made of a single pouring of concrete over a wooden frame.  It is a perfect hemisphere and rests on the cylinder formed by the 20 ft. thick walls of brick-faced concrete.  The only source of natural light in the Pantheon, is a round opening in the center of the dome. It is 27 feet in diameter and open to the sky (the floor is gently sloped to allow for runoff of rainwater).   Once you start to look around you, you are taken in by the opulence. Monumental tombs are set into the walls of the Pantheon.  In the Pantheon are buried the kings of Italy as well as that of the artist Raphael.

Piazza Navona and the Four Rivers Fountain
at night

Piazza Navona – This piazza is near the Pantheon.  Our first night in Rome was spent in the Piazza Navona.  I remember walking around the piazza, watching people and looking at chalk drawings on the cement ground, as well as lots of art for sell.  In the center of the pizazza is Bernini’s most spectacular fountain, la Fontana dei Fiumi (Four Rivers Fountain), which is considered to be the most complex of all the fountains in Rome. It was created by Bernini in the early 1650s and was so expensive that the bread tax was raised in order to cover its high cost. It represents four rivers - the Danube, the Ganges, the Nile, and the Rio de la Plata, each identifiable by the flora and fauna.   There are 2 other fountains in the square as well.  This is a great place to come in the evening and wander the atmospheric narrow lanes and discover places to eat, or to people-watch. 

 

Roman Forum

Roman Forum – This was for centuries the center of Roman public life around which ancient Rome developed.  Here statues and monuments commemorated the city’s great men.  It has been called the most celebrated meeting place in the world, and in all history.  Today the Forum is a sprawling ruin of architectural fragments and intermittent archeological excavations attracting thousands of sightseers.  Many of the oldest and most important structures of the ancient city are located on or near the Forum.   The main sights of the Forum are the Arch of Titus, the Temple of Saturn, Temple of Vesta, and the church of San Luca e Martina.  These are all linked by the Sacra Via (the main road through the Forum).  I remember walking through this place and feeling like I was really walking in the footsteps of Julius Caesar, Brutus and other characters that I had read about from history. 

More of the Roman Forum

**We bought a great book from a vendor in the Forum, and if you are visiting and find this book, I suggest you purchase it.  The book was titled "Rome – Then and Now".  It had pictures of all the buildings that are in partial ruins now, and it shows how the building would have looked then.  The then part is plastic overlays which you can put over the ruins picture and it brings it to life.



 

Statue on Capitoline Hill

 Capitoline Hill – This is the shortest of the seven hills that constitute the ancient city of Rome, but it is the most sacred because of the Jupiter Temple and the temple of the Capitoline Triad, Jupiter and Juno and their daughter Minerva.   As you climb up the sloping steps to the top of the hill you will probably encounter a few Roman soldiers, dressed as they would have quite a few centruies ago.  At the top are many statues including Castor and Pollux and their horses.  The Piazza del Campidoglio is located on top of the Capitol Hill in Rome, where Roman Divinities were once praised and nowadays it is the headquarters of the Italian Government.  Also worth visiting are the three Capitoline Museums. 

My memory of Capitoline Hill is of brides.  The day we were there 3 buses pulled up and the buses were full of women in brides dresses.  There must have been a hundred brides.  I never found out what they were doing there, but they all got out and were walking around the area.  You never know what you will see sometimes.



Villa Borghese park

Gardens of the Villa Borghese – When all the sightseeing gets too much, or the history of the place overwhelms you, find serenity in the gardens of the Villa Borghese, the city's most central public park. It's popular with joggers, dog-walkers and pleasure seekers.   It is a good place to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city, do some people-watching and just relax and enjoy the lovely park.  We spent several hours in the park our last day in Italy.  It was a nice way to end out trip. 

Castel Sant'Angelo

Castel Sant’ Angelo - The Mausoleum of Hadrian, usually known as the Castel Sant'Angelo (Castle of the Holy Angel), is a towering cylindrical building on the right bank of the Tiber in Rome. It was initially commissioned by the Roman Emperor Hadrian as a mausoleum for himself and his family. The building was later used by the popes as a fortress and castle, and is now a museum.

 

Appian Way

Appian Way - The Via Appia Antica or ancient Rome's "Queen of Roads," is the reason we say all roads lead to Rome. Engineered in the 5th century B.C., it was the widest and largest road of its time. In its heyday this avenue spanned some 330 miles, running from Rome to the port of Brindisi, on the Adriatic coast, where boats left for Egypt, Greece, and North Africa.  The road today is remarkably well preserved, flanked on both sides by fields punctuated with ruins and other vestiges of Roman history, its large flat paving stones polished by millennia of use and weathering.  There is a walking tour that national geographic suggests that you can do on this road, for more information go to: http://travel.nationalgeographic.com/travel/city-guides/rome-walking-tour-3/
 

Lion Fountain in
Piazza del Popolo

Piazza del Popolo is a large urban square in Rome. The name literally means "People's Square.  Piazza del Popolo is one of Rome's grand piazzas with a vast and elegant Neoclassical design. A great obelisk stands in the center surrounded by lion fountains. Two ornate fountain groups are opposite each other; one end of the piazza has the beautiful "twin" Baroque fountains of Santa Maria dei Miracoli and Santa Maria in Montesanto. On the other end is one of the gates of Rome, the Porto del Popolo, and the lovely church of Santa Maria del Popolo.  The square is a lively meeting place and a great place for people-watching.

Vittoriano

Vittoriano -  This monument was built as a tribute to the first king of a united Italy Victor Emmanuel II.  The monument, also known as 'Il Vittoriano' consists of a large flight of stairs leading to the Altar of the Nation, dominated by a colossal equestrian statue of the King. At the foot of the statue is the tomb of the unknown soldier, guarded by two sentries of honor. The monument is rounded off with a long corridor featuring 50ft high columns.  The building is one you will definitly see, it is very large, and although it is not popular with the locals and is a more modern building, I thought it was quite attractive.  I took several pictures of it when I was there, but we didn't go in, which now I realize we should have. They say the  monument is well worth the visit, if only for the great views from the top. The top of the Il Vittoriano is also connected to the Campidoglio Square, saving you the climb of Capitoline Hill.
                   

 

Me having my daily gelato

Gelato - Gelato is not a destination, but it should certainly be on your list of things to do.  When we were in Italy, we made a point of stopping sometime everyday for a gelato cone.  Gelato is Italy’s ice cream, but it is better than anything you will ever find here in the states.  Our favorite was the lemon gelato, but we did try almost all of the flavors at some point, after all, we were in Italy for 3 weeks, so we did have some time to try them.  I recommend stopping for the gelato, whenever you can.



There are many other things to see while in Rome.  There are many museums, and if you have time you should definitly check some of them out.  And everywhere you look there are ancient ruins, besides the famous ones I've mentioned.  I remember we were walking along near some modern buildings and saw an area that was preserved under the modern building with a glass window looking into the ruins that were underneath. Everywhere they excavate they find ruins.  But whatever you do, make sure you take the time to relax, have some good Italian food, a bottle of wine, and do some people-watching.   
 

View from the top of Vittoriano

Your stay in Rome is all about your state of mind. Making every hour count means letting the timeless grandeur and beauty of the place seep into your blood. So, keep your eyes open for the little things that aren't on any list, the nooks and nuances of this ancient city.  The best way to see the city is to walk. In Rome, where you can usually count on good weather and unreliable transportation, you're best off doing as much as possible by foot. On the street is also where you'll unearth those unexpected finds. The warm aroma of a bakery. The handmade leather of a local craftsman. The tucked-away piazza that seems stuck in the 16th century, with grandma hanging the clothes out the window and six-year-olds chasing each other across the cobblestones. Even if it doesn't ever really change, Rome always has the power to surprise.

Ruins of Pompeii - a nice day trip from Rome

And after you have spent a few days in Rome, then it is time to go out and explore the rest of Italy.  If you are doing Rome at the start of a tour or cruise, then you are heading off on that, but it you are on your own then you can rent a car and drive, or take the train.  If you decide to take the train, then you should look into purchasing your Eurail pass before you go, either from your travel agent or online.  You'll save money by purchasing it in the states before your trip.  

Italy has some wonderful areas to visit.  We took an excursion up to Venice, Siena, Florence and the Tuscany area, which was quite nice, and then we came back to Rome and headed south to the Amalfi Coast area.  We made Sorrento our home base there because it was close to Pompeii and Capri.  We spent the last 5 days of our three weeks in that area, which was quite nice.  



Me at the Trevi Fountain
tossing my coin so I can return

If you are in Rome and only have a day to explore outside of Rome, then I would recommend taking the train down to Pompeii, which was quite interesting and worth exploring.  The ruins of Pompeii are just at the base of Mount Vesuvius, which erupted and buried the town.  It is very well preserved and will take a full day from Rome to go down and explore.  Or if you don't want to go quite so far, then an excursion to Tivoli Gardens might interest you.  They are a short drive outside of Rome and are beautiful. 

I did throw my coin into the Trevi Fountain when I was in Rome in 1992, and we do plan on making a trip back to Italy.  My husband and I originally visited Italy to celebrate our 25th anniversary, because it had been my dream to go there.  So now we have decided that in 2017 we will go back and celebrate our 50th anniversary in Italy.  Hopefully we will both still be in good enough health to do that.  If you want to read about our original trip, go to the column on the side and click on Anniversary Trip to Italy.  I kept a journal on the trip, and I typed it up to put into my trips column.  And if you are going to Italy soon, and reading this to get ideas of what to do, I hope I have been of some help.  Enjoy your trip, there is nothing quite like Italy, and Rome is the heart of Italy.

 

Lighthouse Series - Lighthouses of the West Coast

Lighthouse keepers have it easy
All year long their homes are breezy;
Noises don’t disturb their labors,
For they haven’t any neighbors.

They don’t need big wastebaskets
For old papers, orange peels, or gaskets;
Just one careless motion
And their trash drops in the ocean.

They don’t need nine holes or twenty,
They get exercise aplenty;
One trip up the spiral stairway
Equals three around the fairway.

Window shades are never needed,
They can dress or strip unheeded;
Wakeful brats don’t have conniptions,
Neighbors don’t give long descriptions.

When I’m old and don't need pity,
I shall leave the sullied city,
Climb a lighthouse, bar the door,
And trim my wicks forevermore.

··· Captain Stetson Turner

Yaquina Head Lighthouse on Northern California Coast

Lighthouses are a reminder of simpler times - of sailing ships and oil lamps and the men and women whom day after day faithfully tended the coastal lights that guided mariners.

In my last posting I told you about how we first got interested in lighthouses. We visited some wonderful lighthouses in Wisconsin on a trip to that area. Since then we have visited many more lighthouses, most of them here on the west coast where we live. In fact, we have a wonderful lighthouse right here in San Diego, the Point Loma Lighthouse, which is located within the Cabrillo National Monument grounds. It is a great place to spend the day. It is high up, with wonderful views of our city. I love to go up there and just spend the afternoon.



Old Point Loma Lighthouse

The lighthouse that everyone visits here in San Diego is actually referred to as the Old Point Loma Lighthouse, because it was actually only used for 36 years. They discovered the location concealed a serious flaw: fog and low clouds often obsured the beam. The New Point Loma Lighthouse is located at the bottom of the hill, which you can see from above when you visit the Old Point Loma Lighthouse. If you ask anyone in San Diego about the lighthouse, they will only tell you about the old one, which is now a tourist attraction, and one of the things everyone should see while visiting the area, if nothing else, for the views.

The Old Point Loma Lighthouse was built in 1855 and stands 422 feet above the sea level, watching over the entrance to San Diego Bay, a sentinel to a vanished past. The National Park Service has refurbished the interior to its historic 1880s appearance - a reminder of a bygone era. Ranger-led talks, displays, and brochures are available to explain the lighthouse’s interesting past.

There are 45 lighthouses in California, most along the coast, although there are 2 lighthouses at Lake Tahoe, which is inland California. The two lighthousse there are : Rubicon Point and Sugar Pine Point Lighthouses.

I have not even begun to visit all of the lighthouses in California. We have traveled the coast of California, and I have seen some of the lighthouses in passing.  For this posting I am only going to talk about the lighthouses that we have actually visited.

Point Pinos Lighthouse

About 10 years ago I decided it would be fun to take our 4 day Thanksgiving weekend and do a vacation instead of staying home and cooking dinner. We headed north and spent 2 days in the Monterey area, then headed into San Francisco for the other 2 days. While in Monterey we took the famous 17 mile drive and stopped to see the Point Pinos Lighthouse in Pacific Grove.

This lighthouse was constructed in 1854 and was the third lighthouse built in California. It has the distinction of being the oldest continuously operating lighthouse on the west coast.

In 1915, the light was electrified, and in 1926 a fog signal was installed, much to the chagrin of local residents. The Coast Guard assumed control of the station in 1939. In 1975, the light was automated, and licensed to the Pacific Grove Historical Society. The fog signal and radio beacon were deactivated in 1993. The lighthouse has been restored and refurbished. The lighthouse remains very much as it did in 1854. The original third-order Fresnel lens still shines from the station. In August 2006, the Coast Guard officially transferred the lighthouse to the city of Pacific Grove, along with 70 acres of surrounding property. The Coast Guard retained responsibility for maintenance of the light, as well as the two housing units adjacent to the lighthouse.

One of our days in San Francisco was spent at Alcatraz Island. Alcatraz is most famous because of the prison, which has a famous past. But what you may not realize is that it also has a lighthouse on it. The tour mainly highlights the prison and the famous prisoners that were housed there, but we did get a close up look at the lighthouse also, although we were not able to go inside of it.



Alcatraz Island Lighthouse

Alcatraz is best known as "the Rock" - a prison where the worst of the worst were incarcerated. It is also famous for having the first California Lighthouse which was built in 1852. The original structure was a California cottage - a two-story structure with a tower in the center. The fifty-foot lighthouse was painted white with black trim and a back lantern room. A fog bell was added in 1856, when it was clear that San Francisco's now well-known fog often rendered the light ineffective. The original bell had to be rung by hand - quite a task considering the density of fog in the area. Later fog bells had a clockwork mechanism which would automatically ring the bell at prescribed intervals. As the city of San Francisco grew, a new flashing fourth-order lens was installed, to aid mariners in distinguishing it from city lights.

On April 18, 1906, the San Francisco earthquake rattled the lighthouse. The lighthouse tower was cracked, and one of the chimneys tumbled down. Work on a new lighthouse began in 1909. The new tower was eighty-four feet tall. Electricity powered the light and the fog sirens at the north and south ends of the island. The new keeper's house was adjacent to the quarters of the warden and the prison doctor. Because the keepers were on prison grounds it was sometimes a dangerouse assignment.

Due to the high cost of maintaining a prison on an island, the government closed the prison in 1963. In November 1963, the lighthouse was automated. Today, a 200,000 candlepower optic shines from the 1909 tower. The island is a popular tourist attraction. The fourth-order Fresnel lens is on display in the island museum. Much of the island has been reclaimed by nature. Part of "Pelican Island" has been closed off as a nesting area for seabirds. In 2004, the lighthouse celebrated its 150th anniversary. Visitors were given the rare opportunity to climb to the top, which is normally not open to the public.



Point Reyes Lighthouse

Point Reyes Lighthouse is located about 30 miles north of San Francisco and is a popular stop for visitors to the Point Reyes National Seashore. The lighthouse was built in 1870. It was a difficult task as all the building materials had to be hauled up the cliff from below. Point Reyes is often shrouded in a heavy fog. In 1918, for example, the fog signal at Point Reyes was active for 2139 hours - about 6 hours a day

The lighthouse was handed over to the Coast Guard in 1939. In 1975, the station was automated. A small building was built just below the light tower for an automated light, foghorn, and radio beacon. The original tower and lens were left intact. In 1977, the site was handed over to the National Parks Service.

Crescent City Lighthouse - AKA Battery Point Lighthouse

Crescent City, California is just a few miles south of the Oregon border. The Crescent City Lighthouse was built in 1856. It has survived several brushes with disaster. In 1879, a wave crashed through the kitchen, tipped over the stove, and ignited a fire. Fortunately, a second wave doused the flames before more damage could be done. In 1964, an earthquake in Alaska drove five tidal waves crashing into Crescent City. Eleven lives were lost and 29 blocks of the city destroyed, but miraculously the lighthouse was spared.

In 1953, the light was automated, and the Fresnel lens replaced by a modern optic. In 1965, the light was closed and replaced with a breakwater light. The lighthouse became the property of the Del Norte Historical Society. In 1982, the society re-established the light as a private aid to navigation, and renamed the station Battery Point Lighthouse. Today the station is manned by resident curators, who serve not only to maintain the station, but also to welcome visitors to the station.

Yaquina Head Lighthouse
on the Oregon Coast

We have also seen several of the lighthouses along the Oregon coast, as we have traveled that route many times on our way to visit family in Washington. In fact on this last trip down the coast only a few months ago, we stopped at Yaquina Head Lighthouse. The 93 foot tower is Oregon's tallest lighthouse. It is located on a narrow point of land jutting into the Pacific Ocean just north of Newport. Winds and rains have buffeted this lighthouse since its beginning in 1872.

Today the fully automated Fresnel lens runs on commercial power and flashes its unique patter 24 hours a day. The Interpretive Center at Yaquina Head offers a wealth of information on the history and preservation of the lighthouse. Open from 9 am to 5 pm (summer beginning Memorial Day weekend) and 10 am to 4 pm (winter, beginning November 1).

Coquille River Lighthouse

Another Oregon lighthouse we have visited in the Coquille River Lighthouse which is near the town of Bandon.

The Coquille River Lighthouse was first lit on February 29, 1896. The station consisted of a 40-foot tower and octagonal fog signal room. The tower housed a fourth-order Fresnel lens. The oil house stood on an adjacent platform. The lighthouse was built on an island and connected to the mainland by a wooden walkway. The keeper's residence was a duplex on the mainland.

In September 1936, a forest fire swept through the town of Bandon. Of the 500 buildings in town, only 16 survived. The town went bankrupt. The resulting decline in shipping led to the station's closure in 1939. The lighthouse was replaced by an automated light on the south jetty.

The abandoned lighthouse deteriorated due to neglect and vandalism. When Bullards State Beach Park was created, park personnel evaluated the site with the intention of restoring the lighthouse as a park attraction. A major restoration of the lighthouse took place from 1976-1979. A new solar powered light was installed in 1991. The revival of the lighthouse paralleled the revival of Bandon, which is now a seaside resort town.

My husband grew up on the Washington coast in the town of Ilwaco, which is at the mouth of the Columbia River. There are 2 lighthouses that were built to guide ships safely into the Columbia River.

Cape Disappointment Lighthouse, Washington

Cape Disappointment Lighthouse marks the north side of the mouth of the Columbia. It was first suggested that a lighthouse be built at Cape Disappointment in 1848 in what was then Oregon Territory. $53,000 was appropriated for a lighthouse in 1852. The bark Oriole, which had delivered materials for construction of four California lighthouses, arrived at the Columbia River in September 1853, but ran aground. The crew was rescued, but the ship and its cargo were lost. Work began despite the mishap, but a second ship did not arrive for almost two years. After the lighthouse was designed, a first-order Fresnel lens was ordered. When the tower was completed, it was found to be too small to house the lens. Rebuilding the tower took an additional two years. The first lighthouse in the Pacific Northwest was finally lit in 1856.

The lighthouse did have a shortcoming. It was discovered that the light was not visible to ships approaching from the north. This problem was remedied by building the North Head Lighthouse just two miles from Cape Disappointment. The first-order lens was moved to the North Head Lighthouse and a fourth-order lens installed at Cape Disappointment.


The lighthouse was electrified in 1937. In 1956, the Coast Guard intended to close the station, but retained the light when the Columbia River bar pilots protested. The light was automated in 1973, and is monitored from Astoria. The lighthouse is still an active aid to navigation. An observation deck has been built for the Coast Guard to monitor traffic and bar conditions. The grounds are open to the public via Cape Disappointment State Park.

 

 

North Head Lighthouse was built to remedy the problem with Cape Disappointment's visibility to the north. This lighthouse faces the ocean directly and is clearly visible to ships traveling from the north. The 65-foot tower stands on a 130-foot cliff. North Head is one of the windiest places in the country. The lantern room windows were equipped with handrails for keepers cleaning the glass. Winds of 126 miles per hour were recorded on January 29, 1921, before the instrument blew away. In 1932, a wild duck was blown into the lantern, breaking through the glass and chipping the lens. The light was automated in 1961.

North Head Lighthouse, Washington

The tower is white, but was painted in camouflage colors during World War II, after a Japanese submarine fired 17 shells at nearby Fort Stevens. The shells caused no injuries, and the only damage was to a backstop on a baseball diamond.

Today the lighthouse is part of Cape Disappointment State Park. The first-order lens is on display at the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center in the park. The residences still stand, and visitors can stay in the residences overnight. The light itself is still active..

Coastal Area near Cape Disappointment and North Head

I hope that the lighthouses have been of interest to some. They are an intersting part of our past, and even though they are not as vital now, because of all of our modern equipment, many are still in use, and are still saving lives. The early lighthouse keepers faced many challenges and sometimes lived in quite isolated areas. They had to deal with lonliness, and with danger due to terrible storms. I think they were courageous people, and I doubt I would have been able to handle the things they went through.

We have also visited some lighthouses on the east coast and even some in foreign countries. Recently in Scotland we took a boat out to a lighthouse that is 10 miles off the coast. We also visited a lighthouse in Spain. If you are traveling anywhere and you have an interest in something, you can quite often tie your travels to that interest. There are even tours set up for people with special interests, like ours with lighthouses. For instance, my daughter and son-in-law are interested in literature, and there are many tours that would interest them that would take them to interesting places and also be based on the types of literature that interest them. If you are into sports, there are certainly many tours that would work with your interest in whatever sport you desire. And there are lots of culinary tours, for those with an interest in cooking or eating, or for that matter wine or beer tasting. So whatever your interest, find the time to go out and explore it.

Lighthouse Series - The Lighthouses of Door County, Wisconsin

 “Lighthouses don’t go running all over an island
 looking for boats to save;

 they just stand there shining.”   
Anne Lamont 

Sturgeon Bay Ship Canal Lighthouse

 

George & I at Cana Island Lighthouse
Door County Wisconsin

In 1999 my husband and I were at a Gift and Collectibles Show in Long Beach, California.  While there we decided to go to a presentation of Harbour Lights Lighthouses.  When we walked into the presentation we were each handed a door prize ticket.  It was a fun and informative session.  At the end of the presentation they gave out the door prizes.  I won a shirt with the Harbour Lights logo.  They also gave away quite a few of their lighthouses.  The grand prize was a trip for 2 to see the lighthouses of Door County, Wisconsin.  My husband won the trip, and of course, I got to go with him.  We had always liked lighthouses, we would stop and look at them when we came across them, but this trip actually gave us a whole new understanding of lighthouses, and we have developed a love for them.

Fresnel Lens

For centuries, early sailors were guided home by bonfires on hillsides.  Lighthouses are a natural progression from this time.  The first known permanent lighthouse was built in 285 BC on the Egyptian Island of Pharos, with an open fire as its light source.  In North America lighthouses began to play a prominent role with the colonies’ increased dependence on maritime trade with Europe. 

Perhaps the most significant development in lighting efficiency was the contribution of the Fresnel lens from France, which used the refracting properties of glass to intensify the light up to 1,600 fold.  Even today, with most lighthouses being automated with electricity, many of these Fresnel lens are still in operation.



Inside the Sand Point Lighthouse
in Escanaba, Michigan

Most lighthouses were in remote locations and the keepers and their families often lived in isolation and often dangerous conditions.  Many keepers were lost to the ravages of violent storms.  By the 1940’s almost all the lighthouses in Lake Michigan had been converted to electricity, and the last keeper left Sherwood Point Lighthouse in 1983.  Technological advances in radar and satellite diminished the need for lighthouses and many light stations have been abandoned.  Many have been restored by lighthouse societies, mariner museums or historical societies.  They have now become places that tourists visit.  But many beacons continue to guide vessels into safe harbors and warn mariners of hazardous shoals and reefs.  They are a testament to our maritime history and the lifestyle of a by-gone era.
 

Sand Point Lighthouse

Our trip was only 4 days in September, but included our airfare, a tour of the lighthouses with a group of lighthouse enthusiasts, hotel and all our meals.  This area of Wisconsin has 33 lighthouses, but we wouldn’t be touring all of them.

We flew to Green Bay, Wisconsin where we were met by the group and taken to our hotel in Green Bay for a welcome dinner with the group.  

 

After breakfast the next morning we were taken on a boat trip on Lake Michigan.  We saw several lighthouses that were out in the water, but we couldn’t stop at any of those, they were not open to visitors.  The lighthouses are no longer manned, they have all been automated and these were small lighthouses.  We landed in Escanaba, Michigan and we toured the Sand Point Lighthouse.  This lighthouse had a woman lighthouse keeper from 1868 to 1886.  Her name was Mary Terry.  We saw her living area and we were able to climb to the top of the lighthouse. 



After our boat trip we were taken to the Hotel Du Nord in Sisters Bay, Wisconsin.  The hotel overlooked Lake Michigan.  Sisters Bay is in Door County and is a small town, with some nice restaurants and shops. 

That evening we were taken to a restaurant for a fish boil dinner.  The fish boil dinner is famous in this area.  The fish is a mild white fish.  It is cooked outside over a fire.  A large pot is set directly on the flames.  Small potatoes and onions are boiled first and the fish is then dropped into the steaming kettle.  They then do a “boil over” and the flames shoot up in the air.  This is Wisconsin’s version of the New England clam bake.  The fish tasted somewhat like lobster to me.  It was delicious.

The next day we visited quite a few lighthouses.  We toured the Eagle Bluff  Station, Cana Island Lighthouse, Baileys Harbor Range Lighthouses, and the Sturgeon Bay Light Station.  We also visited the Door County Maritime Museum.

Eagle Bluff Station Lighthouse

Eagle Bluff Station was built in 1868  and sits high atop a limestone cliff in Penisula State Park.  It marks the passageway thru the east side of the Strawberry Channel on Green Bay.  When it was built the materials for it were barged to the foot of the bluff then hauled 33 feet to the top.  During its 58 years of being manned, this lighthouse had only three keepers.  It was automated in 1926, and the keeper’s house was abandoned at that time.  The Door County Historical Society, with help from the descendants of the former keepers, restored it and opened it to the public in 1963.  Guided tours are offered daily throughout the summer.

Cana Island Lighthouse is on one of the most picturesque settings on the Great Lakes.  It was built in 1870, but the original yellow brick tower was encased in steel plates in 1901 due to deterioration of the bricks.  The light continues to shine at Cana Island and the the lantern room still houses the almost five-foot original Fresnel lens.  It is vulnerable to the violent storms of Lake Michigan.  It has been recorded that huge waves have been known to break over the keeper’s house with spray splashing into the lantern room 80 feet in the air. (See Picture of Cana Island Lighthouse in first paragraph)

Upper Baileys Harbor Lighthouse

Baileys Harbor Range Lighthouses are actually 3 lighthouses.  The Old Baileys Harbor Lighthouse was built in 1852 and featured a “bird-cage” lantern a style which has few surviving examples, because it was extremely rare.  This lighthouse proved to be inadequate at protecting ships from the perilous shoals and reefs.  In 1869 The Baileys Harbor Upper Range and the Lower Range lighthouse were placed into service.  The taller Upper Range Light emitted a white light while the shorter Lower Range Light gave off a red light.  From several miles out on the lake, a ship could get “on range” simply by lining up these two lights.  By keeping the two lights lined up, safe entry into Baileys Harbor was secured.  In 1969 their lanterns were removed from service.
 

Sturgeon Bay Ship Canal
 North Pierhead Lighthouse

Sturgeon Bay Ship Canal North Pierhead Lighthouse was built in 1882 to mark the entrance to the Sturgeon Bay Ship Canal, which allowed them to avoid the often-dangerous passage thru “Death’s Door” located at the tip of the Door Peninsula.  It wasn’t long until they realized the need for a taller, more powerful light at this location, thus the 98 foot tall Sturgeon Bay Ship Canal Lighthouse was constructed in 1899.  However, the metal cylinder design of this tower was unable to withstand the stress of strong lake winds so the structure had to be rebuilt in 1903. (See picture at top of page)  By special arrangement our group was able to climb the tall Sturgeon Bay Lighthouse tower and take in the spectacular view of Lake Michigan.

Our last day we visited Sherwood Point Light Station, the Algoma Pierhead Light Station and the Rawley Point Light Station.  We then visited the Manitowoc Maritime Museum and a World War II submarine. 

Sherwood Point Light Station

Sherwood Point Light Station is perched atop the rugged limestone cliffs at the confluence of Green Bay and Sturgeon Bay.  It was built in 1883, and had the distinction of being the last manned lighthouse on the Great Lakes.  Generally the grounds are not opened to the public, we had special permission to visit it.  It is used today as an R&R facility for members of the Coast Guard station.  The lighthouse is still functioning today.

Algoma Pierhead Light Station began operating in 1932 after it replaced a wooden tower light.   It is a red steel tower with a catwalk out to it. 

Rawley Point Light Station

Rawley Point Light Station warns passing ships of the dangerouse, mile-long shoal jutting out into Lake Michigan.  The original lighthouse built on this site was completed in 1874, but only the keeper’s residence remains from this brick structure.  The replacement tower was actually manufactured in France and exhibited at the 1893 Chicago World’s Fair.  It was then disassembled and towed on scows to Rawley Point and re-assembled.  The tower has two watchrooms, one on top of the other, which is very unusual.

At the end of this day we were transported back to Green Bay for our flight home.  It was an interesting trip, we learned about the lighthouses and their history.  We developed a great appreciation of the lighthouses and the many lives they saved by being there.  The charm, the traditions of lighthouses, the difficulties the early keepers had to endure, these qualities transcend time, and because of this trip, we have made it a point to visit lighthouses whenever the opportunity arises.  Over the years we have visited quite a few.  My next posting will be about some of the lighthouses we have visited here on the west coast.

Plum Island Lighthouse
One of the lighthouse we saw from our boat trip