Destination - Budapest

"If you come from Paris to Budapest, you think you are in Moscow."
Gyorgy Ligeti

Budapest - taken from Fisherman's Bastion

The first time I saw Budapest was from the Danube River.  We took a river cruise from Nuremburg, Germany, and it ended in Budapest.  So our last day on the ship, we sailed down the Danube and past the beautiful Hungarian Parliament Building and under the bridges to our final port of call - the city of Budapest.  The views coming into the city from the river were stunning, and took my breath away.



Budapest at night

Budapest is the capital and largest city of Hungary and the largest city in East-Central Europe.  Originally this was 2 separate cities. Buda was on the west-bank of the Danube, and the east-bank had the city of Pest.  In 1873 the cities became a single city occupying both banks of the river Danube.

There is much to do and see in Budapest, no matter what time of the year you go.  Our first trip was during the Christmas season, when we sailed down the Danube stopping at all the Christmas Markets.  Budapest had a lovely Christmas Market and in the evening we were there for a Christmas Parade, complete with children holding candles and singing.  Our second time in the city was during the summer, and we were able to enjoy the city park on this visit.

A word on public transportation in Budapest.  It is a big city, and while you will be walking around the different areas of the city, it can be quite a distance in-between those areas.  There is public transportation which is inexpensive and runs throughout all the major areas of the city.  It is a combination of bus, trolley, tram and trains.  I would not recommend getting in a taxi.  We made that mistake, and it cost us a small fortune to go a short distance.  Stick with the public transportation, unless you don't mind the expense.

Here are my suggestions of places to see while you are in Budapest:

Castle Hill and Fisherman's Bastion

Looking down on Budapest from Fisherman's Bastion

On the west side of the Danube, Castle Hill is a must-see district for any Budapest visitor. The castle walls and cobbled streets lend it a medieval atmosphere—and so does the lack of cars. Unless you live or work in the area, cars are prohibited, so you'll have to walk or take public transportation to get in. You'll find plenty of cafés and shops in the area, as well as the Buda Castle (a.k.a. Royal Palace), which lies on the neighborhood's southern tip. Also make time to explore Castle Hill's Mathias Church and the Fisherman's Bastion.

One of the turrents at Fisherman's Bastion

Fisherman's Bastion is a neo-Gothic terrace that looks like structure taken straight out of a fairytale. Designed between 1895 and 1902 by Frigyes Schulek—who also oversaw the 19th-century renovation of the  Mathias Church next door—Fisherman's Bastion is named after the medieval guild of fishermen who protected Budapest from invasion.  The structure provides panoramic views of the city.  From here, you can snap some breathtaking pictures of the Danube, Margaret Island, and Pest. You may choose to take some time to explore the bastion's seven ornate turrets, which symbolize the tents of the seven Magyar tribe leaders who settled the Carpathian Basin in 896, ultimately leading to the existence of modern-day Hungary.  Fisherman's Bastion shines brightly with floodlights at night, giving it an even more dramatic presence.

Street on Capital Hill

To get to Castle Hill and Fisherman's Bastion you can walk across the Chain Bridge and catch the funicular, which will take you up the hill.  While you are there make sure you check out some of the shops and there are some good restaurants in this area.  While we were there we saw a small parade of people in old time costumes walking in parade fashion through the area, with a priest leading and a young couple right behind him.  We were wondering if it was some kind of wedding procession.

Hero's Square

Hero's Square, City Park and Vahdagybtard Castle
Dedicated to "the memory of the heroes who gave their lives for the freedom of our people and our national independence," Heroes' Square is one of Budapest's grandest landmarks. Swing by this area and take a picture of the Millenium Monument, called so because its construction was begun in 1896, Hungary's 1,000th anniversary. At the base of the famous column (topped with the archangel Gabriel) are statues representating seven Magyar chieftains—considered to be the founders of the Hungarian nation. Behind the column are matching colonnades with 14 statues of royalty and other important figures in Hungarian history.

Vahdagybtard Castle in City Park

Next door to Hero's Square is Budapest's City Park (Hungarians call it Városliget) .  This park is the largest park in the city.  It is worth taking some time to explore it.  Also, in the park is Vahdagybtard Castle.  This castle began its life as a structure made of wood and cardboard. It was built for the city's millennium exhibition in 1896 and was a huge hit with both the locals and those visiting Budapest.  Because the castle became so popular with the residents, the city decided to make it a more permanent structure. It is actually an enclave of buildings rather than just one structure and is said to be modeled from a castle of the same name in Transylvania, Romania.

Hungarian Parliament Building

Completed in 1904, the Hungarian Parliament Building is one of Budapest's most famous landmarks. The National Assembly of Hungary still meets there to this day. Travelers come mainly to take in the building's architecture (primarily Gothic Revival style) and its beautiful statues and paintings.  According to many, there is no structure in Hungary that serves as a better symbol of the country's independence and commitment to democracy.

Hungarian Parliament Building

Holy Crown in the Parliament Building

Guided tours of the Parliament are available when the National Assembly is not in session. The tour takes about 45 minutes, and is well worth the price (about $16 US) as it covers the main entrance stairs and hall, one of the lobbies, the old House of Lords and the Hungarian Crown Jewels.  The crown jewels were stolen during World War II.  At some point they were given to the American Army for safekeeping, and they were stored at Fort Knox.  They were finally returned to Hungary when Jimmy Carter was president. 

 

Thermal Baths
Budapest is famous for its thermal waters. A relaxing soak in a thermal bath is a quintessential Budapest experience that you will not want to miss. The baths are heated by natural thermal springs. As if a long, hot dip in a bath weren't enough to ease your muscles after a day of walking, most bath houses also offer massage services and steam rooms.

Szechenyi Bath

Budapest's various baths cater to different tastes. Széchenyi Baths in City Park stands as the largest thermal bath in Europe, and the perfect place to engage in a long game of water chess with some locals. Gellért Baths is one of the most photographed spas in Budapest, and with its grand Art Nouveau architecture and art deco details, it's not hard to see why.

We visited the Szechenyi Bath the day we visited City Park.  We didn't go into the bath however.  Most of the hotels in the city also have Thermal pools.  Our hotel told us that there thermal pools used the same natural thermal springs water as the other baths in town.  They also had the steam rooms and the massage services.  So I decided to save money and use those services instead, and then I could just go up to my room afterwards and relax.

Shop at the Central Market Hall

Central Market Main Floor

Built at the end of the 19th century, the Central Market Hall is the largest indoor market in Budapest. Among other things, on the ground floor you'll find a large selection of sausages, meats, cheeses, fruits and vegetables. On the second floor, there are food stands and plenty of vendors selling handicrafts, clothing, embroidery, chessboards and other souvenirs. Paprika and Tokaji are also sold here. In the basement, there is a fish market, a small Asian grocery store, a supermarket, and a small drugstore.  The building also has some architectural significance. The metal roof structure is still the original, and the roof is covered with decorative Zsolnay tiles.

Both times we visited Budapest we spent some time at the market.  They have some beautiful embroideried tablecloths here and I found some nice lace.  There is the usual tourist stuff, but also some nice things at good prices.  Also, the stores along the street in front of the market have some beautiful things to purchase, so if you are a shopper, this area is a good place to visit.
 

Walk Across the Chain Bridge

Chain Bridge

Spanning the Danube the Chain Bridge was the first to permanently connect Buda and Pest. There had been a pontoon bridge on the river since the Middle Ages enabling passage from spring to autumn. During winter, the river froze making crossing possible; however, there were times when the weather changed abruptly and people got stuck on one side. In 1820, this happened to Count István Széchenyi, when he had to wait a week to get to his father's funeral. This experience led him to decide that a permanent bridge had to be built. He became a major advocate of the project and founded a society to finance and build the bridge.  At the time of its construction, Chain Bridge was considered to be one of the wonders of the world.  It was completed in 1849.

Take a Cruise on the Danube

Shoes on the Danube Promenade
on the Danube River

If you didn't arrive by boat as we did, then you can book a cruise on the river.  There's no better way to admire the beauty of Buda and Pest.  Embark on a relaxing daytime sightseeing cruise that includes a stroll through Margaret Island, or add a romantic touch with an evening cruise that's accompanied by dinner and dancing beneath the stars.  Several companies in Budapest offer sightseeing cruises, and most of them are head-set-guided in multiple languages. There are many options to choose from: one-hour sightseeing cruises cover all the attractions located on the banks of the Danube, two-hour cruises offer optional walk on Margaret Island, evening cruises are available with buffet-type dinner, and some offer music where you can dance while you cruise.

The Shoes on the Danube Promenade

This is a memorial on the banks of the Danube. It honors the Jews who were killed during World War II. They were ordered to take off their shoes, and were shot at the edge of the water so that their bodies fell into the river and were carried away. It represents their shoes left behind on the bank.



 

Whatever you decide to do while you are in Budapest, make sure you try some of the wonderful Hungarian food.  There are many restaurants to choose from.  There are museums to visit.  And you can take a day trip out into the countryside, or take a day cruise on the Danube that will take you into other areas.  There is also a famous restaurant in Budapest, Gundel's.  Gundel's was opened in 1910 and they are famous for their crepes.  They have savory crepes as well as dessert crepes.  It is just a short distance from city park, so if you are over in that area and want a relaxing stop, I highly recommend this place.  But the main thing is to enjoy this vibrant, beautiful city.

 



Dessert Crepe at Gundel's

Lake in City Park