Costa Rica/ Brazil/Argentina Trip Report
April/May 2015
April/May 2015
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| Butterfly |
Our flight
for San Jose was scheduled to start boarding at 5:15pm. Houston, we have a problem. First they delayed us boarding for 30 minutes
because the airport was in a weather slowdown.
When we finally got boarded, we sat at the gate for the longest time
before they let us taxi out for takeoff.
We had about 11 planes stacked up waiting to take off before us. So we sat, sat and sat some more. When we finally took off we were 2 hours
behind schedule. Oh, the joys of
flying. Of course on a positive note,
they did give us free Direct TV which saved us $7.99 each. Laura and I watched “A Night in the Museum
3”.
We arrived at the San Jose Airport at little after 11 pm. We had to go through Immigration, retrieve our bags and go through Customs. We were met by a driver and taken to the Courtyard Hotel which was only a few minutes from the airport. The driver gave us our vouchers from the local travel agency and informed us that we would be picked up at 5:45 am in the front of the hotel.
Day Two 17
April
We arrived at the San Jose Airport at little after 11 pm. We had to go through Immigration, retrieve our bags and go through Customs. We were met by a driver and taken to the Courtyard Hotel which was only a few minutes from the airport. The driver gave us our vouchers from the local travel agency and informed us that we would be picked up at 5:45 am in the front of the hotel.
Surprisingly we were able to drag ourselves out of bed, dress and get down for breakfast, checkout and still beat the pickup deadline. We were the first pickup so for the next 2 hours we went from hotel to hotel picking up individuals who were joining the group. We have individuals from Australia, Egypt, Germany, Switzerland, Costa Rica, France and of course the US of A.
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| Arriving at the boat that took us to Mawamba Lodge |
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| Our cabin |
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| Some of the old logging equipment in the village |
We walked back to the lodge. Laura took a swim and is now enjoying a cocktail while I enjoy an Imperial beer and try to write about today. Dinner is at 7:30 pm and I am sure it will be an early night for us both.
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| A handsome Iguana at our resort |
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| Toucan |
We did turn in early and slept quite well until about 4 AM when the skies opened up and it poured. Hard rain on a tin roof is a real eye opener. We did not get back to sleep until about 6AM when the light aircraft started making their landing approaches right over the resort. We dozed on and off for about an hour then gave up. It was time to start a new day.
Day 3 18 April
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| This is the frog that is the symbol of Costa Rica |
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| Poisonous frog |
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| Jesus Christ Lizard |
Tomorrow is a travel day.
Day 4 19 April
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| Tabacon Resort and Hot Springs |
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| Relaxing in the area for hotel guests only |
After we were assigned our room, we took the shuttle from
the hotel to the Thermal Resort which is about 200 yards up the road from the
hotel. It has many different pools in
which you can soak or swim and also has a casual restaurant which serves an
international buffet. We soaked in
several pools, and then went up to the adult’s only area which is just for
hotel guests over 18. It was much more
peaceful. We wandered up and down some
of the trails and then went to the restaurant for dinner.
After dinner it was back to the room to download photos and
to start reporting the day’s events. We
have been very early to bed each night as our daytime activities have taken a
toll on the old bones.
Day 5 20 April
Early to bed, early to rise.
We had a 7:45AM pickup for the Hanging Bridges tour. We had a quick breakfast and then off in a
van with 2 other couples. Once we
arrived at the site, we were joined by 4 more people. It was nice that we had a small group as the
larger groups of 20 + just tramped through the trails and did not really get
the personal attention that our guide gave us.
She worked very hard to find various things to show us and spent time
explaining the environment. 
One of the first major things that we saw was a hummingbird
on the nest next to the trail, followed by a Mexican Jumping pit viper. We had crossed
several suspended bridges so far in our trip.
There were a total of 6 in the 3 km trail, and several solid
bridges.  |
| Mexican Jumping Viper |
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| Yellow Eyelash Pit Viper |
At the end of the trail, we came out to see Mount Arenal which had finally come from out of the clouds. It was then down the hill and over the dale back to the resort. We packed our swim suits and headed out for the thermal springs. We spent the remainder of the day there enjoying the warm waters.
So after a hard day of hiking, soaking in the thermal pools,
and slipping down slides it was time to relax a little and toast the day with a
green mojito.
After we dried off it was back to the hotel to pack and get
ready for another travel day.
Day 6 21 April
It was a short trip from the Resort to our first change in
the mode of transportation. First there
was a minivan for about a ten minute ride then a transfer to a boat to take us
across Lake Arenal. We were surprised when
we got into the minivan to find the couple from Egypt was there. When we arrived at the boat we had to transfer our luggage to the boat. It is always fun trying to carry your luggage
down a slippery, muddy path. What we did not know at the time was on the
other side it was even worse with a slippery muddy path up the hill.  |
| The Belmar Hotel, Monteverde |
The tour was just OK, nothing special. We only saw a few things. The best was the Rainbow Toucan followed by Laura’s favorite; the Orange Kneed tarantula. I was very proud of her; she did not even scream or anything when that was discovered.
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| Orange Kneed Tarantula, we saw it on our night walk |
The tour was reported to be over fairly smooth ground but turned out to be up and down many hills or steps which you had to climb up. Being the big game hunter, George is credited with finding a very large cockroach. Way to go, Bwana George.
After the tour, we retreated to the bar for liquid refreshment. Laura had a “Drink of the Day” which was very refreshing while I had a Gin & Tonic. Strictly as a precaution against malaria as you know. We shared a plate of nachos and then it was time to call it a day.
Day 7 22 April
We awoke this morning to see why they call this a “cloud
forest”. Yesterday when we arrived it
was bright and sunshiny. This morning
the clouds were drifting through the tree line which made it a much different
scene. Also it was cooler and
damper. It was to be a very busy day, we
were picked up at 7:45 and driven over very bumpy roads to the Selvatura Park
where we were scheduled to take a Hanging Bridges Nature hike, visit the Butterfly garden and
Laura was to try her wish of zip lining.
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| Hanging Bridges Nature Hike |
After the Nature hike, we went to the Butterfly
exhibit. It was much larger than the one
we toured in Tortuguera. But again, it
is very difficult to photograph a butterfly because they stay mostly on the
move. Even when they do stop on a
flower, they keep flapping their wings.
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| A butterfly at the farm |
After the butterflies, we went to a have a light lunch
before Laura had to go suit up for her zip line adventure.
When Laura returned from zip lining, she said that not only
had she zip lined but she had done the Tarzan Swing, which is similar to a bungee
jump with a drop of about 70 meters or 220 feet, but after going straight down
you swing out. She is much braver than
I. Maybe after 6 or 7 beers, I could say
“Here hold my beer and watch this”.
It was now almost
4PM, so they loaded us up on a bus to take us back to the hotels. We got back almost an hour later after taking
everyone else on the bus to their hotels before we reached ours. It is good to get back and relax. We have to pack up as tomorrow is another
traveling day as we head for the Pacific coast of Costa Rica.
Day 8 23 April
As I said at the end of yesterdays report, this was a travel
day. One point in its favor was that we
did not have to meet our driver until 9 AM.
That meant we had a nice leisurely breakfast rather than the rush we
have had in the past with 7:30 AM pickups.
This morning it was not a problem as both Laura and I was awake and
moving about prior to 6 AM. The sun sets
here earlier and it certainly rises earlier.
We had a private driver who apologized for his poor English
and then he told us we had 30 Km of rough road to cover before we reached paved
roads. I know that I have commented that
the roads were rough in prior reports; I need to stress that the 30 Km of road
that we covered this morning were at times little more than goat paths. When we finally got onto paved roads it was
such a relief. I had been clenching my
jaws shut and had braced my leg against the seat in front of me in order to
stay on my seat.
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| Parrot at rest stop |
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| Beach at the Diria Hotel |
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| Our hotel The Tamarindo Diria |
It must have been the massage, the beers and thicker curtains in the room because we slept in until 7:30 AM. We went down to the restaurant for breakfast. It was good. We even had a guest stop by our table to have breakfast with us.
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| Our breakfast guest, a Magpie |
We left the pool about noon as we had to catch out boat to
go on a snorkeling/sunset cruise. It was
a nice little catamaran. We had about 24
people on the boat. Most were young
adults but no children. The ride out to
the cove was about 1 ½ hours, we then anchored and individuals snorkeled,
paddled a kayak or a paddleboard. The
drinks were cool and the crew members were very attentive to our needs. After about an hour of swimming and
snorkeling, everyone boarded the boat and they served a light lunch.
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| Laura sunning herself on the catamaran |
It was a very enjoyable afternoon on the water. Laura did some snorkeling but the water was very rough and she didn't see much, a few fish and some coral. She was out of the water and back on the boat before the sea snake came along.
It was then back to the hotel for a quick dip in the pool to
cool off and then up to the room to prepare for tomorrows adventures. I suggested matching tattoos but Laura wants
to go boogie boarding so she vetoed that idea.Day 10 25 April
It was a very relaxing day today. We shared breakfast with the magpie again and watched the red squirrels run around the area. Laura rented a boogie board and hit the waves for a bit. She reported that the waves were not as good as Pacific Beach. We both were in the pool and then retired to our room to sit on the balcony to read. The day is warm but overcast. We also walked up and down the main drag looking in the shops for the last time. We might not have such a shopping opportunity again in our lives. Tonight we are going to treat ourselves to a good dinner at the Patagonia Argentina Grill & Restaurant. It came very highly recommended on Trip Advisor. Soon we will know for ourselves.
This is our last day in Tamarindo, we leave tomorrow
afternoon for San Jose for an overnight prior to flying to Manaus, Brazil. We noticed, as we were getting ready to go to dinner that they were setting up for a sunset wedding on the lawn in front of our room. As it turned out they got a beautiful sunset. And we had a nice dinner at the Argentina barbeque restaurant with a walk on the beach afterwards.
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| Sunset our last night in Tamarindo |
We had to check out of the hotel by noon and had a 1 PM pickup. I said that it was a travel day and it really turned out to be true. The first driver took us about an hour and then dropped us in a compound that was completely closed because it was Sunday. He said the bus would be there in 10 minutes, forty minutes later, it showed up. It was packed and it appeared that we were the only English speakers on board. We drove and drove. The traffic at times was bumper to bumper. When we came to standstill vendors would be walking down the highway selling fruit, cashews, and water. We finally arrived at the Courtyard Hotel at 6:30 PM. It was a heck of a day.
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| Laura at the airport in San Jose, she finally found her sloth. |
The flight from Panama City to Manaus was pleasant; it was
only 3 hours 15 minutes in length. They
served a hot dinner which was very nice unlike some airline food. We arrived in Manaus at about 9 PM. It sounds like we were in the air longer but
we had passed through 2 time zones since we left San Jose, Costa Rica. We made it through Immigration Control with
no problems but while going through Customs, Laura was almost run down by an
old lady who pushed her cart from the back of a fairly short line to the
front. It was one of the strangest and
rudest things that I have seen.
We were picked up by a driver and taken to the Tropical
Hotel. After having a cold beer in the
lobby bar, we went to the room, unpacked and went to bed.  |
| Tropical Hotel, Manaus, Brazil |
Day 13 28 April
The day started at the crack of dawn with Laura getting up to search for a blanket as we were both quite chilled. She found a little square one which if you pulled up to your shoulders; your feet are uncovered but it is better than nothing. Wakeup call was for 7 AM so we could have breakfast prior to our City Tour. Manaus was founded in the 1600’s; it was a great rubber producing center until a couple of English tourists stole some seeds and took them to Malaysia to start rubber plantations there. That killed the economy of Manaus from about 1910 until about the 1960’s. It was evident by the conditions of many of the buildings that were beautiful at one time but now either just ruins or in very poor condition. There are million dollar condos on one side of the street and cinder block hovels with tin roofs on the other.
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| Banana Market |
The government spent 35 million dollars to build a soccer stadium for the Olympics but only 4 games were played in it. The people rioted because they thought the money could have been used better elsewhere such as for education or public sanitation.
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| Marketplace, building designed by Eiffel |
We also visited the house that the original Rubber baron
built and only lived in for 7 years. It
was huge; he lived there with just his wife.
Even the servants lived in separate quarters next door to the home. When he moved out, the building became a
government building for the Amazon.
About 9 years ago the government moved out and it has become a cultural
museum.
We also visited the Opera House and listened to the
orchestra practice for a concert tonight.
The Opera House was completed in 1896 and seats 721 attendees.  |
| Rubber Baron's home |
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| Opera House |
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| Inside the Opera House |
After visiting the Opera House, the guide assisted Laura in finding an ATM since we had spent all of our cash and the ATM at the airport and at the hotel would not accept Laura’s card. We returned to the hotel then financially solvent once again. We wandered around the gift shops connected to the hotel and visited the little botanical gardens that the hotel owns. It was sad to see some of the beautiful jungle creatures here in cages.
After our tours, we returned to the room to rest and to work
on this report. Soon it was 6 PM and we
needed to think about dinner. The hotel
is about a $20-$25 taxi ride to the main part of town or depending on traffic
at least a 30 minute drive. We decided
to see what the hotel offered. We found
that at 7 PM a buffet restaurant opens that includes a musical show. We decided to give it a try. The food was good. They had a great variety of local foods and
some very nice desserts. The show was
wild. Of course it was all in Portuguese
so we did not understand a single thing they were saying or singing but the
music had a great beat and the dancers were well costumed and very energetic.
Day 14 29 April |
| Variety Show put on at Tropical Hotel |
We slept in this morning because we are in no hurry since we
have until 2 PM before they pick us up for the 3 day boat ride up the Amazon
and its tributaries.
Yesterday for breakfast, Laura discovered warm tapioca
sprinkled with cinnamon powder. It was
so good she had two bowls. She was
looking forward to having it again today but alas it was not to be. So we had what looked like tapioca pancakes
with banana, coconut and sweet cream.
The tapioca was ground into flour then fried on a griddle. Then the fruit is added and the pancake
folded over like a taco. It was very
good also. I must say the Brazilian
coffee is very dark roasted and strong.
I like it but could not drink more than a cup without my pulse rate
speeding up.
The hotel appears to be an older hotel like it was built at
the start of the 1900’s but it was really built in 1975. We had a few strange things to see in the
room. First were the square toilet
seats. Second was the hose and spray
attachment next to the toilet. There was
a drain in the floor and a soap dish mounted on the wall. I don’t know if it was a Brazilian equivalent
of a bidet or a place to wash your feet. Another strange thing is the hose bib
under the sink on the wall and the hot and cold water handles on the wall high
above the toilet next to the shower. The
shower controls for hot and cold are in the shower just as you would suspect. We just don’t know what those other knobs are
for.
The bed is a king sized bed but it is only two feet off the
floor. It was comfortable but they do
not make the sheets and blankets long enough to cover you from the shoulder and
enough to tuck in at the foot of the bed. |
| The Amazon Clipper |
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| Our room on the ship |
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| George onboard |
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| Us on the Clipper |
At 5:30 AM, Wolf our guide, came a knocking at our door. He did not huff nor did he puff but his knocks could have destroyed a brick house. The plan was to have coffee and then leave on the canoe to look for the birds as they woke up. Sometimes plans don’t work out as well as expected, there were a few birds awake but most were too far away to get a good picture and even if they were close the available light was poor. So after 2 hours we returned to the boat for breakfast.
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| Channel Billed Toucan |
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| Out on our canoe trip, houses along the bank of the river |
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| orchids growing in the trees |
Our boat driver took us up little slips of water between fallen trees and bushes growing out of the water. This was not a Disney Jungle Cruise. The best bird pictures that we got were of the Blue and Yellow Macaws and of a Toucan. We saw several flocks of parakeets, groups of green parrots and other birds, but they were either in flight or too far away to get a decent picture. We also spotted orchids growing in the trees as well as bromeliads and philodendrons. We returned to the boat for dinner and a lecture on the Formation of the Amazon Basin.
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| evening on the Rio Negro |
Now it is time to retire and prepare for tomorrows
adventure.
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| Our guide caught a piranha |
While we were having breakfast, it started to rain. Not a gentle rain like in previous days but a storm that was large enough that we could not see either shoreline. Our trip to a “native” village maybe delayed a ½ hour to allow the storm to pass.
I suppose now is a good time to talk about our fellow
passengers. The boat has 17 cabins on
this trip 8 of them are filled. We have
15 total passengers on board and a staff of 8.
Among the passengers there are 1 fellow American, 1 from England, 2 from
Greece, 2 from Germany, and 7 from Brazil, Argentina or Uruguay. We are an interesting mix.
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| a house in the village |
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| In the village with their tapir, Celina |
The “native” village was formed 35 years ago when the government brought families from 5 tribes who were living near the Columbian border. They have a small community that shares both tribal and modern governing methods. An elder from each tribe manages the social events of the community and an elected “mayor” deals with the political events and communicates with the government officials in Manaus. We were discouraged from taking pictures of the people or into their houses but we did get pictures of the blue and yellow macaw, green parrots and a tapir that they have as pets.
We then returned to the boat with a little free time before
lunch. After lunch and our naps, we were
scheduled to stop at a beach and go swimming.
That was cancelled because the water level is too high. There are no beaches.
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| Stairs we had to climb to get to the village |
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| Amazon Boa in tree above us |
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| Capuchin Monkeys |
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| Squirrel Monkey on Georges's hat |
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| Three-toed Sloth |
We had piranha soup as promised at dinner. It was good but we all agreed that it tasted like chicken but then doesn’t everything. They also baked two of the larger piranha. After dinner, Wolf gave a presentation on the native people of the Amazon basin – where they came from and some of the problems that they face with the modern world.
Day 17 2 May
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| The Meeting of the waters The Amazon and the Rio Negro |
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| Coming back into Manaus on the Clipper |
The flight was uneventful, just long. By the time we reached out hotel it was 11 PM and we had a 9 AM pick up for the City Tour.
Day 18 3 May
We arose at a decent time and went down to breakfast. The tour bus was late, when we got onboard
the guide said that they had us listed in another hotel and had we changed
hotels. We explained that we had not
changed anything so their records must be incorrect. It turned out to be the “Big Bus”
experience. On the right hand side you
can see the blah-blah and just around the corner on the left is the blah-blah.  |
| The city of Rio |
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| Took a cable car to the top of Sugar Loaf |
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| The view of the city and Corcovado in the distance from Sugar Loaf Mtn. |
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| Us on top of Sugar Loaf Mtn. |
While we were waiting for the bus and new guide to show up; we were allowed to cross the street to an open craft market. Laura said something to me and a young man asked her where she was from. She told him and he yelled at his friends. He was from Hillcrest and another was North Park and another was from National City. They were tickled pink to find someone from home.
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| Statue over the city |
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| View from atop Corcovado |
Afterwards we were herded back to the bus and that concluded
the tour. Now we had to drop people off
at each of their hotels. Wouldn’t you
know, we were last people to be dropped off?
Our 8 hours tour turned into a 10 hour tour. We had a 7 AM pick up in the morning so it
was early to bed once again.
Day 19 4 May
May the Fourth be with you!
It was an early morning, we had 30 minutes to catch a quick breakfast
because the café opened at 6:30 and our driver was picking us up at 7 AM. We got to the airport with no problems other
than being dropped off at the wrong terminal.
We had to walk about a mile it seemed to get to the right one. Once we were there Laura had to check us in
on an automated system. Of course, it
was in Portuguese. She did get some help
but the young lady must have been tired of helping because she assigned me a
seat in the 6th row and Laura a seat in the 24th
row. While we were sitting at our gate,
what appeared to be a soccer club showed up at the gate. They were all in their warmup outfits with
the team logo. Other passengers were
taking pictures of them. I was surprised
at the age of the individuals; it must have been a senior division. They were fit but there was an abundance of
grey hair.
We got on the flight and had a smooth flight to Iguazu,
Brazil. It is interesting on the
different airlines what they provide in flight.
Some soda and a cookie, another provided a cold cheese sandwich, and
this flight provided a glass of water.
Anything else you had to pay to receive it.  |
| Sheraton Iguassu Falls |
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| La Garganta del Diablo falls |
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| Coatimundi |
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| butterfly |
At 7 PM, we took a taxi to the Park entrance where we were
to meet for the Full Moon Walk over the falls and dinner. It was cool; Laura was concerned about me
because I had not brought anything heavy to stay warm so she bought me a
sweatshirt with a jaguar on the front.
We had a nice buffet dinner and then walked out over the same elevated
mesh bridges we had covered earlier in the day.
This time the only light was moonlight.
Everything looked different including the falls.
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| George on the Moon Walk |
Unfortunately, we did not get the rainbow over the falls caused by the full moon. But it was much better than it could have been. On the way here, Laura had received an e-mail stating that the Moon Walk for 3 May was cancelled and we would be receiving a refund. She was stressing a little bit because of that e-mail but when we got to the hotel on the 4th, they confirmed that everything was set for that night. Why the company e-mailed us that the tour was cancelled on a day that we did not have a tour, is unknown. We got back to our rooms about midnight. It was a good day.
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| The falls by moonlight |
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| A tarantula that crossed our path |
We then thought about taking the Inferior Trail which leads down to the river but after about 20 stairs and seeing how many more there were to go, we returned to the hotel.
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| Iguassu Falls |
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| Monkey |
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| Wild Guinea Pig |
We took another walk in late afternoon to see what was
coming out prior to sunset. We found a
herd of coatimundi a wild guinea pig, and unidentified rodent the size of a schnauzer and a few more birds.. We had dinner of fish in a prawn sauce that was excellent. We retired to the bar patio
for drinks, Laura had a Mojito and I had a Café Latte. We sat there watching the sunset and looking at the view of the falls in the distance. We are looking forward to tomorrow’s adventures.
It was another leisurely morning prior to our pick up by the
drivers to return us to the Brazilian side of the river. We could see the hotel in which we were to
stay for the next day across the river but it took about 40 minutes to cross
the border and drive there.
It was another grand looking hotel which had been built in
the 1960’s. They did a great job; it
looked like the place was from the 1800’s.
We got checked in and made an appointment to take the boat trip up under
the falls. I tried to convince Laura
that I had already showered that morning but she insisted because it would be
“fun”. We walked around the grounds and
on the trail looking out over the falls.
The view of the falls was much better from this side of the river. Our appointment for the boat ride was at 2 PM
so we were picked up at 2:15 PM. I guess
that was 2 PM Brazilian time. It was
complicated getting to the boats, first it was a ride in a van, then they
transferred us to a towed trailer and finally loaded us on jeeps. We walked down to the dock and were fitted
out with life jackets and given seats on the boat. We were the last people put on the boat so we
did not have premium seats. I was right
behind the pilot and Laura was right behind the videographer. But on the other hand, we did have some
shelter.  |
| Das Cataratas Hotel on the Brazil Side of the falls |
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| On our ride up the river to the falls |
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| We were soaked |
As we walked along, we kept encountering groups of coatimundi
foraging for their dinners. We did not
see any Toucans on this side of the river which was a disappointment but we saw
many more butterflies and a future unknown species of butterfly.
We walked out to the Throat of the Devil (La Garganta del Diablo) on this side of the river. It was a different view and we got a little wet from the spray. It was interesting that we kept seeing birds flying directly into the falls. They have nests behind the falls. I would think that it would be a bit damp back there, but who knows how far back the nests are.
We returned to the hotel and took refuge in the bar to await
our dinner reservation. We thought we
should have a drink to celebrate and it should be something that related to our
latest adventure.
So we had a drink called the
“Devil’s Throat”. It was a little bit
spicy but quite enjoyable. We did not
eat the chili pepper that was in the glass as garnish. Soon it was dinner time and for the foodies
who may read this Laura had duck and I had a fish. I will never understand why they think it is
fancy to stack your food and while Laura’s plate had splashes of beet, mine had
what appeared to be a skidmark. However,
both of the dinners were excellent. We walked out to the Throat of the Devil (La Garganta del Diablo) on this side of the river. It was a different view and we got a little wet from the spray. It was interesting that we kept seeing birds flying directly into the falls. They have nests behind the falls. I would think that it would be a bit damp back there, but who knows how far back the nests are.
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| The Throat of the Devil from the Brazil Side |
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| Having a drink in the bar |
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| George dancing with another guest of the hotel |
After several farewell drinks in the bar, we tottled off to our rooms.
Day 22 7 May
This is our pack out
morning. We are being picked up at 9:30
to be taken to the airport in Iguazu for a flight to San Paluo and then on to
Houston and finally home. Laura had a
bit of last minute shopping to do before we could leave the hotel. Then it was off for home. Our flight for Houston does not leave until
later so we are hoping that we will be able to get into the first class lounge
again.
Day 23 8 May
Things did not turn out as we
had wished, the flight was full so we were not able to get into first class so
we had 11 hours of economy comfort. We
arrived in Houston at 5:30 AM to clear TSA and Customs. That as always was a lot of fun. Its worse when you are tired; the lines seem
to go on forever.  |
| Schnauzers happy to have us home! |
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