Ft. Clatsop National Historical Park

 

“We were now about to penetrate a country at least two thousand miles in width, on which the foot of civilized man had never trod. The good or evil it had in store for us was for experiment yet to determine, and these little vessels contained every article by which we were to expect to subsist or defend ourselves. However, as the state of mind in which we are, generally gives the coloring to events, when the imagination is suffered to wander into futurity, the picture which now presented itself to me was a most pleasing one. Entertaining as I do the most confident hope of succeeding in a voyage which had formed a darling project of mine for the last ten years, I could but esteem this moment of my departure as among the most happy of my life. (Meriwether Lewis)”
― John Bakeless, The Journals of Lewis and Clark

 

 

Every summer my husband and I head north to the state of Washington to visit family and spend some time at our cabin on the river.  We always also visit the coast where my husband has family.  We try to make sure every year that we also see something new.  We take side trips on the trip up and back, and visit new things in the areas we visit.  This year we detoured over to the Oregon coast and spent a little time visiting Ft. Clatsop National Historical Park, which is just outside Astoria, Oregon.

 

Inside one of the rooms
of the fort

Ft. Clatsop is where Lewis and Clark and their group of explorers stayed from December of 1805 to March of 1806.  They built a small fort there and spent the winter.  It is an interesting place to visit and if you are in the area I think it is worth a stop. 

 

The visitor center includes a replica of Fort Clatsop similar to the one built by the explorers, an interpretive center offering an exhibit hall, gift shop and two films. The center features ranger-led programs, costumed rangers in the fort, and  2 trailheads - the Fort to Sea Trail and Netal River Trail, as well as restrooms and a picnic area.



We hiked the trail to the river
and came across this canoe
similar to what they would have used

The price is $3.00 for those 16 and older, free if under 16. If you have a National Park pass, or are active duty military it is also free.  They are open every day except Christmas day. 

If you are interested in Lewis and Clark, this area has many more places for you to explore.  The explorers were also on the Washington side of the river, and if you go across the bridge at Astoria to the Washington side you will see an entrance for the Cape Disappointment State Park.  Here you will find the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center, which  stands high on the cliffs of Cape Disappointment State Park, 200 feet above the pounding Pacific surf. A series of mural-sized timeline panels guide visitors through the westward journey of the Lewis and Clark Expedition using sketches, paintings, photographs, and the words of Corps members themselves. The center also features a short film presentation, a gift shop, and a glassed-in observation deck with fabulous views of the river, headlands, and sea. Additional displays focus on local maritime and military history.  There is also the Cape Disappointment lighthouse in the state park.

Inside the Interpretive Center on the
Washington side of the river

 

In November of 1805, the U.S. Corps of Volunteers for Northwest Discovery, led by Meriwether Lewis and Wiliam Clark reached the mouth of the mighty Columbia River and the Pacific Ocean at last. "Great joy in camp," Clark wrote in his journal, "we are in view of the ocean, this great Pacific Ocean which we been so long anxious to see."  Shortly after arriving at the Pacific on the Washington side, they crossed the river and made the fort where they wintered.  The city of Long Beach, which is close by, also has a statue dedicated to Lewis and Clark. 

One other stop we made while visiting Ft. Clatsop was to see the shipwreck of the Peter Iredale on the Oregon coast near Ft. Stevens State Park.  The Peter Iredale was a four-masted steel sailing vessel that ran ashore October 25, 1906, en route to the Columbia River. Wreckage is still visible, making it a popular tourist attraction.  The shipwreck is slowly breaking up and I can't imagine it will still have much left in another 10 years.  I saw a picture of what it looked like just 10 years ago, and there is very little of that left.  Here is my picture of the ship.

When you visit this area, take time to visit the coast, its quite pretty.  Bring your rain gear, because there is always the possibility of rain, even in the summer.  And eat some of the good seafood, they are famous for their razor clams.

Detours on the Road to Where Ever

"Establishing goals is all right if you don't let them deprive you of interesting detours".

Doug Larson

"So many roads. So many detours. So many choices. So many mistakes."

Sarah Jessica Parker

When you are taking a road trip, you usually have a destination in mind. Quite often you have time limitations and schedules, so you need to just hit the road and get to where you are going.  We seldom seem to have all the time in the world to just meander and see all the sights along the way. But even when you are on a schedule you can take a few little detours and still get to your destination, and you will be rewarded for doing so.  You will have had an experience, or learned something new, or just seen something entertaining that you will remember long after the trip is over

My husband and I take a road trip to Washington every year.  Now that we are retired, we do have the time to do a little wandering off the beaten track.  But the trip this year was going to be shorter than the past years, and when we left home we did have a schedule, as I had made reservations at a cottage on the Washington coast, which was our first destination.  It is a 2 day trip from San Diego to the Washington coast.  We made it to Redding the first day, and that was pushing it.  We got stuck in terrible traffic through Los Angeles, which really slowed us down by several hours.  Also, we have the 2 dogs with us, so we do have to stop every few hours for them to stretch their legs and take a potty break, and for that matter, us too. 

Rogue River Creamery

So the second day we are headed for our destination, and I see a sign along the side of the road which advertises The Rogue River Creamery.  They are located in Central Point, Oregon and we were approaching that area.  They said they had samples.  Now I have to say that I LOVE cheese and have actually read about this place.  I had seen an article that talked about how good their cheeses are.  So when I saw the sign I said to my husband, "we have to stop."  The good thing about traveling with George is that he is pretty easy going and willing to stop most of the time.

Since we had the dogs with us and it was a hot day, George said he'd stay in the car and I could go check it out.  I went in and had a few of their samples, and fell in love with several of the cheeses.  Their blue cheese was so creamy, and probably the best blue I had ever had.  A couple of the cheeses in their display case caught my eye, especially one that had the word raspberry attached to it.  I found out that you could ask to taste anything, and they would gladly oblige.  The raspberry cheese had been soaked in a raspberry ale, and it was my favorite cheese of the day.  I ended up purchasing 3 packages of cheese, the raspberry, the Rogue River Blue and the Mt. Mazama cheddar.  I told them I would be putting them in the cooler of my car and not actually eating them for about 5 days, when we would be at our cabin, so they wrapped them special for me, so that they would stay fresh. 

Then I noticed that there was a chocolate factory next door.  Convenient, since besides cheese my favorite thing is chocolate.  So I just had to go check it out and get a few samples there.  They had a chocolate that was very spicy, which I quite enjoyed.  The stop took just over an hour, including the driving time to the shop and back to the freeway, and I thought it was definitely worth the detour.

On the way home we also made a detour.  We had heard about VooDoo Doughnuts from several people in the area.  They are quite popular in Portland, so much so that they always have a line around the block waiting to get in.  I guess the draw is that they are different from the usual doughnut shop, in that they have unusual toppings and also, I was told, unusual shapes.  We decided to skip the one in Portland and instead stop at their shop in Eugene, which would be a quick hop off the freeway on our way south.  Their signature doughnut seems to be their maple bar which is topped with bacon.  I thought, what the heck, might as well try it.  I do require my bacon to be cooked well done and crispy and this seemed like it was.  Sometimes you just have to try the unusual.  However, I have to say that I don't really see the draw.  The doughnuts were good, but you can get good doughnuts lots of places.  The shop was a little unusual, you have the weird name going for it, and some of the doughnuts were different, but I wouldn't necessarily go back.  But still, I was glad we made the detour and checked them out, or I would have always wondered what they were like.

VooDoo Doughnuts

The maple bar with bacon

I will tell you that if you are anywhere near the Portland area, and you are at all into literature and books, then one detour you should definitely make is a stop at Powell's Book Store.  It is different from the ordinary book store.  Powell's City of Books is a book lover's paradise, the largest used and new bookstore in the world. Located in downtown Portland, Oregon, and occupying an entire city block, the store stocks more than a million new and used books. Nine color coded rooms house over 3,500 different sections, offering something for every interest, including an incredible selection of out-of-print and hard-to-find titles.



The Travel Section at Powell's

 A few facts about Powell's:   
• It has 68,000 square feet packed with books.
• They buy 3,000 used books over the counter every day.
• Approximately 3,000 people walk in and buy something every day.
• Another 3,000 people just browse and drink coffee.
• They stock 122 major subject areas and more than 3,500 subsections.
• You'll find more than 1,000,000 volumes on their shelves.
• Approximately 80,000 book lovers browse the City's shelves every day in Portland and via the Internet

It is one of my favorite places in Portland, and I make a point of stopping there whenever we are in the area.  They have a great travel section, and I bought several new travel books there this year.

A fun little detour we did on this trip actually took us by complete surprise.  We had left Lassen National Park and were heading south on the 395.  I was dozing, I admit it. So I didn't see it.  My husband said he had just seen a shoe tree.  I was a little puzzled.  He found a place to turn around and we went back, and sure enough, there was a tree beside the road, covered in shoes.  It was worth going back for, just for the amusement factor. 

The Shoe Tree on Hwy 395

So whenever you are driving down the highways on your way to wherever, make sure you take time to occasionally take a detour and check out what is around you.  You may discover a cute little town, or a new kind of cheese, or just see something amusing.  Or you may find dinosaur tracks in the dessert, which we did when we made a detour in Arizona last year.  Those detours can be fun, and certainly a lot more exciting than spending more time in the car.

Dinosaur Tracks in the dessert in Arizona



A Beach Get-Away

“I have always loved the beach. The smell of the salty water, the wind in my face, the gentle roar of the waves all combine to create a sense of peace and calm.”

Anonymous

 

“The Sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever.”

Jacques Cousteau

Sunset at the beach

When I was a little girl I lived in Washington state.  We lived toward the middle of the state on the Columbia River, so water has always been nearby for me.  We had the river, one of the prettiest and bigger rivers in the country.  We also had a cabin on a smaller river about an hour away.  My dad had a boat and we water-skiied, and spent days out on the river, just having fun - or fishing, which was a different kind of fun.  But almost every summer, from my earliest memories, we also would spend a few days at the beach.  It was an all day drive to get there, but there is something about the beach that a river just can't take the place of.

Usually we would go to one of the Oregon beaches, somewhere near Rockaway or Newport.  There used to be a beach called Agate Beach, which is no longer named that.  I was told that the name was changed because there are no longer agates on the beach.  I have to say that is partly my fault.  When we would go there as kids, my mom, sisters and myself, would walk the beach with a sand bucket and pick up agates and take them home.  I'm still one to pick up any kind of interesting rock, no matter where I am, and bring it home.  My backyard, and jars all over my house, hold rocks that I have picked up from all over the world.  Those are some of my favorite souvenirs.  But not just rocks, when at the beach, I'm also looking for interesting shells, or sea glass.

Sadie and Baxter at the Beach

Even today, the beach is probably my second favorite place to be.  My cabin in Washington will always be first, but any beach will be a close second.  Living in Southern California, the beach is never far away.  We quite often spend the day at the beach.  To spend the day in the waves with my boogie board is ideal.  Especially when the water has had a chance to warm up a bit.  And there are some nice dog beaches near us, and I also love to spend the day with the dogs on the beach.  I can only wade while with them, because if I tried to swim, they'd try to be with me, and they are not big enough, or strong enough for the waves and tides.  But they don't mind getting in the shallow waves and even having the waves go over them  And they love running up and down the beach with the other dogs.



Pacific Beach in San Diego at sunset

I think any vacation that includes a beach, is a perfect vacation.  If you just want to get away and relax, where else could be more perfect.  You could rent a cottage, or a hotel room with a balcony, and sit and watch the ocean.  You can stroll along the beach, and reflex on life.  You can spend your days wading or swimming in the salt water, or just lying on a chaise lounge under an umbrella, reading your book.  And watching the sun set over the ocean at night will quite often give you some of the best sunsets of your life.

A beach in Northern California

There has been a lot of talk the past few years about "staycations".  Because of the cost of gas, people can't afford to travel as far.  If you are on a limited income, or just can't get away for whatever reason, and you live anywhere near a beach, then consider a weekend in a cottage by the seashore.  Everyone needs a break from the routine, and this would be a fairly inexpensive way to take that break without breaking the bank.  Don't go to one of the big resort area beaches, but to one of the little seaside towns.  They have more of a seaside atmosphere anyway, and are usually less expensive.  And if you go off season, it's even less expensive.  And the beach is a nice place to be even when it is not hot and sunny.  Sometimes it is more interesting when it is stormy.  And walking the beach after a storm could net you some interesting finds, such as glass floats.



The cottage we rented at the beach
 in Washington last summer

 

I know that along the Pacific coast there are quite a few lesser known beaches that have reasonably priced cottages to rent.  We usually spend a week on the Washington coast every summer after we leave our cabin on the river.  Even in the summer months it is possible to get a place for less than $80 a night, as long as we stay away from the more popular beaches.  And during the winter months they are even less expensive.  That doesn't mean it is right on the beach, those that are a block or two away are usually less expensive, but you are still at the beach.  Here in California they are slightly higher, but the weather is usually nice here year around, so that drives the prices up.

So if you need to getaway from it all, but can't afford to fly to some exotic place, and the ocean is anywhere within driving distance for you, consider getting in your car and just spending a few days at the beach.  It could do wonders for you.  Give you a sense of peace.  And if you have a family, what kid doesn't love to build sand castles and wade in the waves?  It is a great getaway, and it won't break the bank.

Sunset at the beach

Destination - Portland, Oregon and the Columbia River Gorge

"The freedom of travel opens the mind to unlimited possibilities." unknown

Portland, with Mt. Hood

I grew up just up the Columbia River from Portland.  It was an hour drive to the “big city” where my grandmother lived.  We visited her often, and did a lot of our shopping in Portland.  Every summer my sisters and I spent 2 weeks with her, which gave our parents a well-deserved vacation.  But the Portland I grew up with has changed, and in the past few years, when I have visited, I have been more of a tourist in Portland.  It is a really nice city to visit.  I still get up that way almost every year, although I don’t always go into the city.  We have a cabin that is not far from Portland, and tend to spend most of our time on the river.  But Portland is a city worth visiting.

Rose Test Garden - Portland

Yes, it rains in Portland, but there is lots of good weather, particularly in the summer months.  And it is in many ways an outdoor city.  There are lots of parks to visit and walk through.  One of Portland's nicknames is the "City of Roses", and is famous for the Rose test gardens.  If you visit from April through October you can walk among 7,000 luscious rose bushes; June is when they're most bountiful, and they celebrate by having the Rose Festival, with a parade and other festivities. The garden is free, and is open from 7:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily.

Forest Park just outside Portland

If you are a hiker, then Forest Park is a good place to go.   It is the nation's largest urban wilderness. This nearly 5,000-acre park has miles of hiking, jogging and mountain biking trails.  Autumn sees the park's mostly evergreen forest dotted with vibrant fall color. This is the perfect time of year to escape to the quiet solitude of the woods — and all within a 10-minute drive of most downtown hotels.

A peaceful oasis in the midst of the city, The Grotto is set among 62 acres of botanical gardens. The Grotto offers a place of quiet reflection with peaceful ponds, spectacular cliffside vistas and award-winning architecture. It has a religious theme, but the gardens are beautiful and it is open to everyone.

Pittock Mansion

High in the West Hills of Portland, Pittock Mansion soars 1,000 feet above the city’s skyline. A century-old symbol of Portland’s dramatic transformation from a small lumber town to a bustling city, it’s an architectural wonder. With picture-perfect views of rivers, forests, bridges and mountaintops, and rooms teeming with treasures. No other place in town offers a more breathtaking view or a more revealing glimpse of Portland’s past.

Powell's Book Store

One place we never miss going to when in the city is Powell’s City of Books.  It is one of the world’s great bookstores.  It covers an entire city block and contains more than 1.5 million books.  They sell both used and new books and if you can’t find it there, then it is not available.  My husband knows that whenever he loses me in a bookstore he just has to go to the travel section and there I am.  Powell’s has a very nice travel section.

Some other places to check out in Portland are the zoo and OMSI.  The Portland Zoo is quite nice.  I grew up going to it, so I still find it to be one of the better zoos, although now that I live in San Diego, I have to say it is not as good as our zoo.  OMSI is next door to the zoo and stands for Oregon Museum of Science and Industry, and is a great place for adults and kids.  There are five halls that bring science to life with hundreds of interactive exhibits and displays.  And there is an IMAX theatre and a planetarium.

Pioneer Courthouse Sqiare

Portland has a very nice downtown area.  In the heart of downtown is Pioneer Courthouse Square.  It is known as the city’s “living room.”  The Portland Visitor Information Center is located here.  The square hosts quite a few of Portland’s outdoor events each year, and the Portland Farmers Market operates from the square every Monday from 10 a.m.-2 p.m., June-Oct.  It is considered one of the best markets in the states.

Enjoy a distinctive experience at Portland’s Saturday Market, the nation’s largest weekly open-air arts and crafts market. Stroll down row upon row of unique creations made by the people who sell them, and enjoy live music and international snacks. It is located at the Waterfront Park and is open every Saturday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., March through December 24.  It is free and open rain or shine. 

Multnomah Falls

And if you go to Portland make sure you set aside a day to drive up the Columbia River Gorge.  I may be prejudice, but I think it is one of the prettiest places in the world, and I have traveled quite a few places.  Head east out of Portland on Interstate 84.   Make sure you get off the interstate and get onto the Historic Columbia River highway, there are several exits after you leave Portland.  The historical road is a 2 lane road that leads you past several waterfalls, including Multnomah Falls, the largest of the falls along the road.  All of the falls are worth a stop to look at.  You can actually climb all the way to the top of the mountain where Multnomah Falls is just a creek before it plunges off the mountain.   It is quite a steep climb, but when I was a kid we stopped there and climbed it at least once a year. 

Crown Point Lookout and Columbia River Gorge

Make sure you stop at the Crown Point lookout, you can’t beat the views from there.  Other stops along the Columbia River gorge include Bonneville Dam where you can go inside and watch the fish going up the fish ladders.  And there is a paddlewheel boat you can take from Cascade Locks that will take you upriver.  They actually do a decent dinner cruise, if you are interested.  I would suggest going as far as Hood River, which is only 60 miles east of Portland.  Go across the bridge here and then head back down river.  The area near Hood River is where I grew up, and it is known as the “windsurfing capital of the world.”  The Columbia has quite a few white caps on it in this region.

Beacon Rock

Mt. Hood and Hood River

Coming back down the north side of the river you will see a pull out for Beacon Rock. This huge rock has a trail that goes to the top, and if you feel like stretching your legs, this is a nice climb with some good views. After leaving Beacon Rock you will start climbing and will get to the Cape Horn area, which is quite high up.  There is a lookout point here where you should pull over and look at the view.  From there you descend into the Camas and Washougal area   Once you reach Vancouver you can take the bridge that crosses the Columbia and head back into Portland.  Or if you still had time you could head north up Interstate 5 and spend some time at the Mt. Saint Helens Interpretative Center, which tells the story of what happened when St. Helens erupted.  You could also save that for another day trip.

Rose Gardens in Portland

Portland is a city where almost anyone can find something to do.  It has many outdoor activities, such as hiking, bicycling, fishing, golf as well as being close to winter sports – such as sledding and skiing.  It has many museums, and performing arts venues.  It has become famous for its micro-breweries and is a haven for foodies.  The food trucks in Portland have become quite popular and there are many varieties of them.  They cluster in pods throughout the city.

And every year the city has their Rose Festival.  It takes place in early June and there are quite a few festivities held in its honor.  There is the Starlight Parade as well as the famous Rose Parade.   There are Dragon Boat Races, and the coronation of the queen ceremony.  Usually US Navy ships come to town and dock, and you can tour them.  We always looked forward to the festival when I was growing up, and made a point to go to the parade.

Windsurfer on the Columbia River

**Pictures taken from the internet