Hawaii Volcanoes National Park

"Volcanoes are monuments to Earth's origin, evidence that its primordial forces are still at work. During a volcanic eruption, we are reminded that our planet is an ever-changing environment whose basic processes are beyond human control. As much as we have altered the face of the Earth to suit our needs, we can only stand in awe before the power of an eruption."

Taken from the National Park page

Kilauea Overlook in Volcanoes NP

For almost one hundred years, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park has offered its visitors a window into the past through the many and varied cultural sites contained within its boundaries. Established as Hawaii National Park in 1916, the landscape of Hawaiʻi Volcanoes has been shaped by the people who have been a part of its history. Over five centuries before the establishment of the park, Native Hawaiians lived, worked and worshiped on this sacred ground.

I visited Volcanoes National Park about 5 years ago.  As a travel agent we are sometimes sent on what is known as a FAM trip.  The trip is to familiarize us with what there is to see and do, and places to stay in the area they have sent us.  I was sent on a FAM trip to the big island of Hawaii.  It was a dirty job, but someone had to do it.  It was a week of seeing the sights of the island, spending time touring the different hotels there, and even relaxing and enjoying ourselves, all at company expense.  Not a bad way to go.  One of our days on the island we drove over to the other side of the island and toured Volcanoes National Park.  It was a very informative day, and one I very much enjoyed.  Now, my husband and I along with another couple, are planning a trip to the big island in January, so I decided to take another look at what there is to see and do at the park, which we are sure to visit again.


Steam vents at Steaming Bluff in Volcanoes NP

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is open 24 hours a day year-round, including all holidays.  The Kilauea Visitor Center is open daily from 7:45 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.  The Jaggar Museum is open daily from 8:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.  And the Kahuku Unit is only open on Saturdays and Sundays from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Kahuku is closed on the first Saturday of each month, week days and federal holidays.

The Kiluea Visitor Center should be your first stop when entering the park.  The center features informative displays and has the movie "Born of Fire..Born of the Sea", which is shown on the hour throughout the day, starting at 9:00 a.m. and showing the last film at 4:00 p.m. One thing to remember when you go is that the park is located at 4000' elevation and the weather can change very quickly. You should be prepared for hot or cold and sunny or rainy. A warm, sunny day can change to cold and rain in a matter of minutes.  So make sure you take along some warmer clothes to slip into if you need them.

View from Jaggar Museum Overlook

Another place you should stop is the Jaggar Museum.  This museum is on volcanology with seismographs and other equipment used by scientists to monitor volcanoes. The overlook offers spectacular views into the summit caldera and it is also the best and closest place to observe a volcanic eruption at present.  During the daylight hours the robust plume of volcanic gas is a reminder of the molten rock churning in a lava lake beneath the crater floor.  After sunset, Halema'uma'u continues to thrill visitors with a vivid glow that illuminates the clouds.

The following is a recommendation from the National Park Page on things to do in the park:


Holei Sea Arch at
end of Chain of Craters Rd.

One to 3 Hour Visit?
If you have only one to three hours, explore the summit of Kīlauea volcano via the Crater Rim Drive; an 11-mile road that encircles the summit caldera, passes through desert, lush tropical rain forest, traverses the caldera floor, and provides access to well-marked scenic stops and short walks. (Note: Crater Rim Drive is closed between Jaggar Museum and the Chain of Craters Road junction due to volcanic activity in Halema'uma'u.)

Four to 5 Hour Visit?
If you have four to five hours, you may also explore the East Rift and coastal area of the Park via Chain of Craters Road. This road descends 3,700 feet in 20 miles and ends where lava flowed across the road in 2003.  At the end of the road you will find the ocean and the Holei Sea Arch.

  

Thurston Lava Tube, Volcanoes NP

One of the stops on the Crater Rim Drive is a stop at the Thurston Lava Tube.  I particularly remember walking through this tube when we visited.  Just before you arrive at the tube the forest becomes increasingly lush. From the parking area it is a 20 minute, 1/3 mile walk through a tree fern forest.  This is an excellent place to stop and listen to the birds. This lava tube was discovered in 1913 by Lorrin Thurston, a local newspaper publisher. At that time the roof of the tube was covered with lava stalactites, but those soon disappeared to souvenir collectors.  As you walk through the tube consider that several hundred years ago a river of red lava rushed through. And that lava currently travels from Pu'u O'o to the ocean in a labyrinth of lava tubes much like the tube you are walking through. Watch your head in the tube - there are some spots with a low ceiling!

There are so many things you can do when visiting the park.  There are hiking trails, including hiking out to where the active lava is flowing, but do so with caution and make sure you have good hiking shoes to protect your feet, and take water to drink.  You can also bicycle the roads of the park.  There are also many ranger led programs.  If you want to spend more than a day in the park then there are campgrounds and lodging in the park, as well as in nearby Hilo.

Volcano House provides
Lodging and a restaurant

Lodging - There is lodging available at the Volcano House.  Perched on the rim of Kīlauea caldera with a view toward Halema'uma'u crater, and just a short walk across Crater Rim Drive from park headquarters and the Kilauea Visitor Centrer, the historic Volcano House is known for its Hawaiian hospitality, and its location within Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park.  The restored Volcano House offers 33 historic guest rooms, a dining room, snack bar, lounge, and gift shop, along with cultural events and demonstrations.

Namakanipaio Campground

There are two campgrounds in the park, Namakanipaio and Kulanaokuaiki.   Namakanipaio Campground is located at 4,000' elevation.  It is a large open grassy area with tall eucalyptus and ohi'a trees.  The campground has restrooms, water, picnic tables and barbecue pits.  Maximum stay is 7 days.  There is a fee of $15 per night for the drive-in sites and $10 per day for the walk in sites. There are also 10 newly refurbished camper cabins and campsites nearby Nāmakanipaio Campground.  At Kulanaokuaiki camping is free and is available on a first-come basis.  No reservations and no permits are necessary.  Stays are also limited to 7 days in a month.  It is at an elevation of 2700'.  There is no water at this location, and only 8 campsites.  There is a vault-type toilet and picnic tables.  Fires are not permitted.   

 

Cabins at the Namakanipaio Campground.

For more information about the park, including fees and hours of operation, and other things to see and do, go to:  http://www.nps.gov/havo/index.htm



Lassen Volcanic National Park

"It is fine wherever my feet take me
As long as there are sights to see"

Unknown

Lassen Volcanic National Park which is located in northeastern California, is home to smoking fumaroles, meadows of wildflowers, clear mountain lakes, and numerous volcanoes. Jagged peaks tell the story of its eruptive past while hot water continues to mold the land.  All four types of volcanoes found in the entire world are represented in Lassen Volcanic National Park. Volcanoes found in the park include shield (Prospect Peak), plug dome (Lassen Peak), Cinder Cone (Cinder Cone), and Composite (Brokeoff Volcano) volcanoes.

Manzanita Lake with Lassen Peak in the background

Lassen Volcanic National Park started as two separate national monuments designated by President Theodore Roosevelt in 1907: Cinder Cone National Monument and Lassen Peak National Monument.  It became a National Park on August 9. 1916.

The greater Lassen area has been volcanically active for about three million years. Recently the region has seen eruptions from Cinder Cone (~350 years ago) and Lassen Peak (~100 years ago). While the area sleeps now, steam vents, boiling springs, and bubbling mudpots remain active--direct evidence that the volcanic center still smolders. No one can say when or where the next eruption will occur. We can only say that it will.

Inside Lassen Volcanic NP

We visited Lassen NP for the first time on our way home from our annual trip to Washington just a few weeks ago.  It was a short detour off our route home, and since we hadn't visited it before, we decided to take the detour.  It is a smaller park than many of our National Parks, but well worth the stop.  We had our dogs with us, so we were limited to what we could do there, so we just took the road through the park.  Dogs are permitted in the park, but only in the paved areas, they are not permitted on any of the trails.  If you want to hike any of the trails, or participate in any of the ranger programs, then you should definitely plan to spend a couple of days here.

Lassen Volcanic National Park is open all year long, 24 hours a day, but during the winter months road access is limited due to the snow.  Many facilities are open for the summer season only; however the Kohm Yah-mah-nee Visitor Center at the southwest entrance is open year-round. If going in the winter months it is advisable to check road conditions prior to going to the park.

This is the trail that leads to the top of Lassen Peak. 

There are plenty of activities to participate in.   There is of course, hiking, with lots of trails to explore.  Lassen Volcanic National Park offers over 150 miles of hiking trails for visitors of all levels of ability. Discover the devastation of Lassen Peak's last eruption on the accessible trail at the Devastated Area, explore Lassen's largest hydrothermal area on the Bumpass Hell trail, or spend the day climbing Brokeoff Mountain and enjoy its spectacular panoramic views.  There is also boating on the lakes, swimming, fishing, stargazing, bird watching, camping and in the winter you can go snowshoeing, or just play in the snow.

Lassen receives over 30 feet of snow on average each winter! The season often begins in October and persists through June or July.  Snow playing, skiing and snowshoeing are great ways to enjoy Lassen's winter wonderland.  You can join the rangers for a ranger-led snowshoe program offered January through April.


Creek at Sulphur Works

There are many ranger-led programs throughout the year.  There are guided hikes of the Mill Creek Falls trail to learn about our solar system.  There are constellation tours and stargazing.  There are tours that will teach you about black bears or cougars.  There are bird watching programs, and programs that will teach you about volcanos or the mudpots, fumaroles and boiling pools at the Sulphar Works.  There are quite a few programs designed just for kids.  They can become junior rangers or junior firefighters.

Because of the hydrothermal areas it is important to always stay on the established trails and boardwalks. Ground in hydrothermal areas can look solid but may actually be a thin crust hiding pools of acidic boiling water or mud. Traveling off-trail in these areas may result in severe injury. You can view one of these bubbling hot hydrothermal areas at a viewing spot along the road at the Sulphur Works.  It is one of the first stops on the main road shortly after entering at the Southwest entrance.

Camping in Lassen NP

If you want to stay in the park there are cabins at Manzanita Lake that you can rent through the park services.  They are rustic and they are the only cabins in the park, so book early.  There are eight campgrounds in the park.  Approximately half of the park's campsites are reservable.   Four campgrounds are first-come, first-served.  All group sites and stock corrals require reservations. Each campsite has a picnic table, fire ring equipped with grill, and a metal bear box for food storage. There are no hookups in the park. A dump station is located near Manzanita Lake.


For more information about Lassen Volcanic National Park, including fees, pet policy, making reservations for the cabins and camping information, things to do, ranger programs or special events - go to: http://www.nps.gov/lavo/index.htm

View from Bumpass Hell

Lake Helen



Me at Bumpass Hell



Diamond Peak



Joshua Tree National Park

 

One time I saw a tiny Joshua tree sapling growing not too far from the old tree. I wanted to dig it up and replant it near our house. I told Mom that I would protect it from the wind and water it every day so that it could grow nice and tall and straight. Mom frowned at me. "You'd be destroying what makes it special," she said. "It's the Joshua tree's struggle that gives it its beauty.”

Jeannette Walls

 

Even though I have lived in San Diego for over 30 years, I had never visited Joshua Tree National Park until last year.  It is only about 3 hours drive from San Diego, so it seems we might have visited it sooner, but somehow we had passed it by.  We took a weeks vacation in Palm Spring last year, and while there decided to drive over and check it out.  I really didn't know much about the park before we went, but figured it must be of some interest or it wouldn't have made it as a National Park.  I was pleasantly surprised.  We had a very enjoyable day exploring the park.  And it was only a short drive from Palm Springs.  Anyone visiting Palm Springs for any length of time should consider a day trip over to the park.


Joshua Tree in the park

Joshua Tree National Park in California is a rugged yet enchanting place. The park is named for the delightful Joshua tree.  What is a Joshua tree? It is also known as Yucca Brevifolia and is a member of the Agave family. When you find yourself surrounded by twisted, spiky trees straight out of a Dr. Seuss book, you will have found the Joshua tree.  The tree which is found in abundance here is known for its tough leaves which were used by Native  Americans in basket making and footwear. The Joshua tree gets its name from early Mormon migrants who saw the trees limbs outstretched like the Prophet Joshua, guiding them westward.

While the desert landscape is gorgeous throughout the park in all seasons, perhaps the most spectacular features are the rocks. Huge granite boulders soar overhead enticing rock climbers from around the world. The sight of these huge rock monoliths against a bright blue sky combined with the Joshua trees makes for a unique,and beautiful landscape.

The park encompasses over one million acres of pristine desert scenery. Two deserts with their own separate ecosystems merge within the park. The eastern part of the park contains the Colorado Desert at elevations below 3,000 feet. Spiny ocotillo plants, creosote bushes and cholla cactus dominate the eastern section. The higher Mojave Desert occupies the western part of the park. It is in the Mojave, slightly cooler and moister, where the Joshua Trees grow.

Joshua Tree became a National Monument in 1936 and was upgraded to a National Park in 1994.  The park offers visitors lots of opportunities for exploration and discovery, depending on how much time you have to explore the park and what your interests are.

My dogs enjoying the park

Every visit should start with a stop at one of the visitor centers where park staff can help you plan your visit. There are 3 visitors centers in this park, plus a Nature Center.  If you only have a few hours to explore then you may want to confine your sightseeing to the main park roads.   There are many pullouts with wayside along these roads. In our case we were forced to limit ourselves to the main roads, because we had our 2 dogs with us.  Baxter and Sadie accompany us on many of our road travels, and they are allowed in the parks, but their activities are restricted.  They must be on a leash at all times and cannot be more than 100 feet from a road, picnic area, or campground and they are prohibited from any of the trails.

Large Rock Formations in the park

If you have a full day to spend in the park you will have time to explore some of the hiking trails.  There are many ranger programs, which includes hikes with rangers, where they explain about the geology and nature of the area.  There are guided walking tours of Keys Ranch, which is a historical ranch in the park.  On this tour you explore the colorful story and numerous artifacts of this Mojave Desert historical site.  If you are into mountain biking, the park offers an extensive network of dirt roads that make for less crowded and safer cycling than the paved main roads.  And the park is very popular with rock climbers, if that is your thing.  The park has ten mountains greater that 5,000 feet in elevation.  When we were there we just enjoyed watching some of the rock climbers.  There are lots of interesting rock formations.

Joshua Tree is home to abundant wildlife including bobcats, coyotes, golden eagles, burrowing owls, roadrunners, sidewinders and tarantulas. While the desert may seem unforgiving and difficult to live in, animals have adapted in order to survive. For example, the Kangaroo Rat is especially adapted for life in the harsh desert. He lives off of seeds alone, getting all the nutrients and water he needs from the seeds. Together with his sense of smell and his front paws, he sifts through the sand in search of these tiny, life giving seeds. His large rear paws are adapted for travel over the desert sand.

We spotted this coyote while in the park

If you have more than one day to spend in the park then you might want to stay in the park.  There are nine campgrounds in the park, plus backcountry camping is permitted. Almost 500 campsites nestled amongst the boulders makes for a one of a kind camp experience. While RVs are welcome, hookups are not available. The majority of the campgrounds cost between $5 and $10 and are first come, first served. Group sites (which cost $20-$35), Indian Cove and Black Rock accept reservations. Campgrounds fill up fast, especially in the spring. Arrive early for the best chance of obtaining a campsite. For more information about the campgrounds, go to: www.nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/camping.htm



Skull Rock, in Joshua Tree NP

The park is always open and  may be visited anytime of year. Spring is the most popular time to visit with an average temperature of 85 and a spectacular wildflower bloom. The timing of the blooms varies from year to year depending on the winter rainfall and the spring time temperatures. Blooms generally begin in the warmer lower elevations in February and in the upper elevations in March and April. For the elevations in the park over 5000 feet, wildflowers often remain blooming as late as June. In general, in the lower elevations (1000 to 3000 feet), annuals bloom from February through April, cacti bloom from March through May and Yuccas bloom between March and April. In the higher elevations (3000 to 5000 feet), annuals bloom from March through May, cacti bloom from April through June and Joshua Trees and Yuccas bloom between March and April.

College kids on spring break fill the campgrounds in April and March but tend to be a more subdued crowd than the stereotypical spring breakers found elsewhere. Summer brings temperatures of over 100 degrees, not the best time to visit. Fall and winter bring cooler days with fall's temperatures in the 80s and winter in the 60s. Visitation increases as temperatures moderate in the fall, peaks during spring wildflower season, and diminishes during the heat of summer.  There are entrance fees, but as with all National Parks, they accept the National Park passes, and senior passes.  For information on the passes and the fees, go to  http://www.nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/feesandreservations.htm  

Joshua Tree National Park is an interesting park to visit.  It is different than other parks that we have visited, and we enjoyed our day of exploring it.  If you are in the area, you should definitly check it out.  It does make a nice day trip from Palm Springs.  We also visited a ghost town that was between Palm Springs and the park, and that made a nice stop along the way.

Old West Town near Joshua Tree NP

A note of caution: The desert, fascinating as it is, can be life-threatening for those unfamiliar with its potential dangers. It is essential that you carry water with you-even if you are only driving through.   In the summer it can get quite hot.  Even in the winter, which is when we visited, the temperatures were in the low 80's.

Bryce Canyon National Park





"Rest is not idleness, and to lie sometimes on the grass under trees on a summer's day, listening to the murmur of the water, or watching the clouds float across the sky, is by no means a waste of time."

John Lubbock

Entrance to the park

I love visiting our national parks.  I have never been to a national park that I didn't find something I loved about the park and that area of our country.  I visited Bryce National Park quite a few years ago, in conjunction with a visit to the Grand Canyon.  They are actually not that far apart.  When we did our trip we spent a week and were able to take in the Grand Canyon, Lake Powell and Zion National Park along with Bryce.  This was a good way to see several national parks at one time. Most people never go to the north rim of the Grand Canyon, but it would be easy to add it to a trip that took in these other parks, because it is very near to them.

Bryce Canyon National Park

Bryce Canyon National Park is located in southwestern Utah. Bryce Canyon in not really a canyon, but a collection of giant natural ampitheaters along the eastern side of Paunsaugunt Plateau. Its distinctive geological structures called hodoos are formed by frost weathering and stream erosion of the river and lake bed. The red, orange and white colors of the rocks provide spectacular views for park visitors. Bryce sits at a much higher elevation than nearby Zion National Park. The rim at Bryce varies from 8,000 to 9,000 feet. Bryce was designated a national monument in 1923 and became a national park in 1928. The park covers 35,835 acres and receives relatively few visitors compared to Zion and the Grand Canyon, largely due to its remote location.



Bryce Canyon National Park

The park is open 24 hours per day throughout the year. There may be temporary road closures during and shortly after winter snow storms until plowing is completed and conditions are safe for visitor traffic. Road maintenance may require brief closures of individual areas at other times.  The best time to go to the park is in the spring, summer or fall, as winter can be harsh and there will be less facilities available during the winter months.

There are many things you can do while in the park.  There are ranger programs, such as their daily Geology Talks, and guided rim walks.  Ever wonder why the rocks are red? Where we got the name hoodoo? What's a deer's favorite food? The magic of Bryce Canyon sparks the imagination and wonder in park rangers as well as visitors. Ranger programs are a great way to expand your exploration of Bryce Canyon. They're free too!

Full moon over Bryce NP

There are also evening programs which offer an in-depth look at some of the compelling stories and interesting resources that Bryce Canyon protects.  They even have a Full Moon Hike where you can join the "Dark Rangers" for a nocturnal adventure. These highly popular hikes are only offered during the full moon. Flashlights are prohibited and "lug traction" footwear is required. Tickets can only be obtained at the visitor center the morning of the hike on a first come, first served basis.  There are also Astronomers Tours available.  During the winter months they also do ranger led Snowshoe Hikes.   Check at visitor center for topics, start times, and locations.

You can drive along the rim area of the park which is about 18 miles long.  The last lookout point is Rainbow Point.  There are 13 lookout points along this road, where you can pull over and look out over Bryce Canyon.  You can also hike into the canyon on various hiking trails.  Pets are not allowed on any unpaved trails in the park, so if you have a pet with you then you will be staying above the canyon area.

Natural arch in Bryce Canyon NP

There are 2 campgrounds inside Bryce Canyon National Park, they are North and Sunset Campgrounds. Both have restrooms with flush toilets, and drinking water. During the summer months coin-operated laundry and shower facilities are available at the general store nearby. There are no hook-ups in the campgrounds, but a fee-for-use dump station is available for RV users at the south end of North Campground.  North Campground has 13 RV sites available by reservation and 86 RV and Tent Sites available on a first-come, first-served basis. Sunset Campground has 20 Tent Sites and a Group site available by reservation and 80 RV and Tent Sites available on a first-come, first-served basis.  So if you don't have a reservation, then get there early, because they do fill up.



Bryce Canyon Lodge

There is one lodge within the national park.  The Bryce Canyon Lodge which also includes cabins.  The lodge, cabins and motel are all part of the Bryce Canyon Lodge and has 114 rooms available.  The lodge is open only between March and November - the actual dates vary from year to year.  There is a dining room at the lodge which is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.  There is also a gift shop available at the lodge.  Reservations are recommended.

The most popular place to stay in the area is just outside the park entrance and is very convenient for those visiting the park.  It is the Best Western Ruby's Inn and Campground.  The place is a very popular stop for visitors to the park, and they also have a nice restarurant. http://www.rubysinn.com/.  We did not stay there, we actually stayed in one of the cabins that we got through Bryce Canyon Lodge.  Our cabin was right on the rim, and in the morning I could walk out the door of my cabin and be overlooking the rim.  We had our dog with us, and she was allowed to stay in our cabin.  We did visit Ruby's though, and had dinner there our first night.

For more information about Bryce Canyon, their fees, and things to do while in the park, go to: http://www.brycecanyoncountry.com/


My next posting will be about nearby Zion National Park.  They are close enough to each other that they are a natural to combine.




Grand Canyon National Park

“The glories and the beauties of form, color, and sound unite in the Grand Canyon-forms unrivaled even by the mountains, colors that vie with sunsets, and sounds that span the diapason from tempest to tinkling raindrop, from cataract to bubbling fountain.” 

John Wesley Powell

Grand Canyon became a National Park in 1919, three years after the creation of the National Park Service.  It receives close to five million visitors each year.  I have visited the Grand Canyon National Park twice, and it overwhelmed my senses with its immense size and beauty.   The park is 277 river miles long, 18 miles wide and is one mile deep.  The Colorado River runs through the canyon and is what carved the canyon.  The average distance across the canyon is only 10 miles, it takes 5 hours to drive the 215 miles between the park's South Rim Village and the North Rim Village.

Me at the Grand Canyon, South Rim

The majority of visitors only visit the South Rim, and most of them see it in one day from their car, or the shuttle bus, and at overlooks along the rim.  The South Rim is the most accessible part of the park and is open all year.  A much smaller number of people see the canyon from the North Rim, which lies just 10 miles directly across the canyon from the South Rim.  The North Rim is closed in the winter months due to weather conditions.  The Inner Canyon includes everything below the rim and is seen mainly by hikers, mule riders, or river runners.



The steam engine on the Grand Canyon Railway

The Grand Canyon is located in northern Arizona.  Both times I visited the park, I arrived by the Grand Canyon Railway.  It leaves Williams daily and makes its way to the park.  It is a great way to get to the park, but certainly not the only way.  The most common way to get to the canyon is to drive.  If you live far away, then you will probably fly to either Phoenix or Las Vegas, and then rent a car and drive to the park.  Both places are equally close, about a 3 hour drive.   Once you get to the park there is a free shuttle bus you can ride within the park, which will not only save you money, but is more environmentally friendly than driving your own car to the different lookout places.  To learn more about the Grand Canyon Railway, go to my posting in June: http://havelistwilltravel.blogspot.com/2012/03/grand-canyon-railway.html



TheTrans-Canyon Shuttle runs between the north and south rims of the park once each day, in each direction, and the travel time is about 4 1/2 hours each way. This is the only regularly scheduled service between the north and south rims of the park.

    The shuttle leaves the north rim at 7am and arrives at the south rim at noon.

    The suttle leaves the south rim at 1:30pm and rrives back at the north rim at 6:30pm.

Reservations are required and can be made by calling 928-638-2820. Scheduled service is available between May 15th and October 15, with a limited schedule between October 16 and October 31.

Watchtower at the Grand Canyon NP

Once you are in the park, there are many things that you can do.  There are guided tours you can book that will take you to some of the lookout points, as well as the Dessert View Road and the Watchtower.  The Watchtower is a round stone building which was designed by Mary Colter, one of the first woman architects.  She is often referred to as the architect of the southwest.  I have a book on her, and I think she was a fascinating woman.  She also designed the Bright Angel Lodge which is one of the hotels you could stay in if you spend the night (more about that when I talk about accomodations in the park.)



Inside the Watchtower

As you get closer to the building you might see how well it blends into the environment. It is difficult to tell where the rock of the canyon walls end, and the tower begins. From Desert View… aptly named because of the views to the east of the Painted Desert…you can see the Colorado River make a big bend and continue to the west, the North Rim more than 10 miles away, and a panoramic view for well over 100 miles on a clear day.




Also, while in the park, there are many hiking trails, both above and below the rim.  When we were there we took the free shuttle bus out to the last of the lookout points and then hiked the trail back towards the village.  The trail runs along the edge of the canyon and even sometimes dips below the rim.  The trail goes from one lookout point to the next, and at any point you can hop back on the shuttle bus. 

 

Mule trip

There are mule trips to the floor of the canyon if you are feeling adventursome.  There are also some shorter mule trips available.  There are weight limits and age limits.  They say the mules like to hug the outside edge of the trail, so you are hanging over the edge of the canyon on parts of the ride.  Unless you are comfortable with heights, it might not be that much fun.  If you go to the floor of the canyon then you will spend the night at Phantom Ranch and return the next day.  Mule trips should be booked in advance as they are popular and tend to sell out.

 

White-water rafting
the Colorado River

Something I have seriously considered doing is a white-water rafting trip down the Colorado River and through the canyon.  I think seeing the canyon from the bottom up would be quite wonderful.  The rafting trips are anywhere from 3 days to18 days.  They are guided trips with professional guides who know the river.  You camp along the way.  If you do the trip just half way and get out at Phantom Ranch, then you will have to climb the trail back to the rim - a steep climb.  There are no one day rafting trips through the Grand Canyon.  We did, however take a half-day smooth water rafting trip from Glen Canyon Dam, which is north of the Grand Canyon and takes you through a smaller canyon.  That was fun, but not nearly as adventursome.

 

El Tovar Hotel

There are many lodging options for you within the park.  The most luxuious of the hotels is the El Tovar.  Located on the Canyon rim, it features a fine dining room (open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner), lounge and curio shop with newsstand. El Tovar offers its guests Concierge and room service and is a Registered National Historic Landmark.  Also available is the Bright Angel Lodge which was designed by Mary Colter in 1935.  It has a natural, rustic character, and is also a Registered National Historic Landmark.  It is located just a few feet from the Canyon rim.  Other options include The Kachina Lodge and The Thunderbird Lodge, both of which are conveniently located between El Tovar and Bright Angel Lodge. They are both contemporary hotels.  Maswik Lodge is a modern facility spread over several acres of Ponderosa Pine forest, located just 1/4 mile from the canyon's edge.  It features a cafeteria that is open from 6:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. Here you will also find a Pizza Pub with wide screen TVs, a curio shop stocked with handicrafts and gifts, and a transportation activities desk.  Yavapai Lodge is Grand Canyon National Park Lodges' largest facility and is surrounded by Pinyon and Juniper woodlands, about 1/2 mile from the rim.  Yavapai Lodge features the Canyon Cafe, which is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The curio shop has a wide range of gifts and a transportation / activities desk is located in the lobby.  There are also some cabins available, some of which are also on the rim.

 

Phantom Ranch on the floor of the Grand Canyon

Phantom Ranch is also available to stay in, but it is on the canyon floor and to get to it you must either hike down or take the mule trip.  Remember that if you hike down, you will also have to hike back up.  The ranch was designed by architect Mary E. J. Colter and completed in 1922. The rustic cabins and main lodge are built of wood and native stone and do not intrude on the natural beauty and solitude of the setting. Overnight accommodations at Phantom Ranch consist of dormitory spaces and cabins. Cabins and dormitories are heated and cooled during the summer months.

 

Campgrounds are also available within the park.

 

Pets are permitted in the park, and must be leashed at all times.  They can be on any of the trails above the rim, but are not permitted on the trails below the rim.  They are also not permitted on the free shuttle bus or in any of the rooms within the park system.  They are allowed in the campgrounds.  There is a kennel at the park where pets can be boarded, for a price.

 

For more information about the park, including admission fees, park passes, and other things to see and do, visit:  http://www.nps.gov/grca/index.htm

 

Sedona, Arizona, near the Grand Canyon

When planning your visit to the Grand Canyon, you might also want to consider visiting some other things in the area.  Whenever we are anywhere near that area, we love to stop in Sedona.  The red rocks and mountains around the town of Sedona are quite beautiful, and the color is more intense than the colors within the Grand Canyon.

 

Another place that might be worth visiting is the Grand Canyon Skywalk, which is not inside the national park, but not far away.  The Skywalk is owned by the Hualapai Indian tribe.  To get to it you do have to drive 10 miles on a dirt road.  The Skywalk is a transparent horseshoe-shaped cantilever bridge which is suspended out over the edge of the canyon, about 4,770 feet elevation of the Colorado River.

Skywalk

 

When we visited the canyon we had a week, so we combined the trip with Lake Powell, Bryce Canyon and Zion National Parks, all are to the north of the Grand Canyon, but not that far.  If you have the time, they could be easily combined with a visit to the Grand Canyon National Parks.  I will be writing about both Bryce and Zion National Parks in upcoming editions.

 

 

Yellowstone & Grand Teton National Parks

One of the geysers in Yellowstone National Park

Of all the national parks, Yellowstone stands out in my mind, probably because it is so unusual.   The landscape is like nothing else on this earth.  In places it is like a moonscape, and in other places it is trees and rivers and beautiful.  There are geysers everywhere, and some of them are sulphur, so they can be smelly.  It is very diverse landscape, and one of the most interesting places to visit.



Elk Horn Arch in Jackson, Wyoming

When we went to Yellowstone we drove from Southern California and it took us 4 days on the road.  The trip was about 10 years ago.  We head to Washington every summer because of our cabin and also because we have family there.  Sometime we detour and take in other areas along with our trip to Washington and that is what we did that year.  We went up the I-15 through Utah and then cut across to Wyoming and Yellowstone.  On our way to Yellowstone we stopped in Jackson, which is a cute little town with some really great shops and restaurants. Anyone going through the area should definitly stop in the town and look around.

Then we headed north, which took us through Grand Teton National Park.  We actually headed into that park in the morning and spent the whole day wandering through the park, only exiting and heading onto Yellowstone in the evening, because we had reservations for the night at the Old Faithful cabins.

If you don't want to drive all the way from where you live then you could fly to Salt Lake City (which is the closest hub and therefore probably the least expensive place to fly to) and rent a car. From there you can drive all the way to Yellowstone in one day, but if you want to see Jackson and the Grand Tetons then an overnight in that area would be a good idea.

The Grand Tetons

Grand Teton National Park has some spectacular scenery.  Located in northwestern Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park protects spectacular mountain scenery and a diverse collection of wildlife.

The central feature of the park is the Teton Range, a 40-mile long mountain front rising from the valley floor some 6,000  feet. The jagged range includes its signature peak Grand Teton at 13,770 feet and at least twelve pinnacles over 12,000 feet. Seven lakes adorn the base of the range, and more than 100 alpine lakes dot the backcountry. Elk, moose, mule deer, bison and pronghorn are commonly found in the park. Black bears roam the forests and canyons, while grizzlies wander throughout more remote portions of the park. More than 300 species of birds can be observed including bald eagles, peregrine falcons and trumpeter swans.

Jenny Lake in the the Grand Teton National Park

There are many outdoor recreation activities to choose from at Grand Teton National Park. During the summer you can hike, walk, view wildlife, take photographs, backpack, camp, climb, fish, swim, boat, float, canoe and bike. In winter skiing and snowshoeing are popular activities.

There are 4 visitor centers and well as an information center.  There are several lodges where you can stay, several areas have cabins for rent and there are 6 campgrounds within the park.  Dogs are allowed in the park as long as they are leashed, but they are not allowed on many of the trails.  There are entrance fees, and they are basic to what other  national parks charge, and they allow for multiple days.  I have talked about the annual passes and the military and senior passes in other posts.  If you have want more details about the fees, go to http://www.nps.gov/grte/planyourvisit/feesandreservations.htm

The distance from the north edge of Grand Teton National Park to the south entrance of Yellowstone National Park is 6.6 miles.  So if you are doing either of these parks, they are a natural to combine them and see both in one trip.

Geyser in Yellowstone National Park

Yellowstone was our first national park, established in 1872.  It is a mountain wildland, home to grizzly bears, wolves, and herds of bison and elk.  Old Faithful and the majority of the world's geysers are preserved here.  The park is open all year, but during the winter months many roads are closed to wheeled vehicles, and only accessible by snowmobile.  The road between Gardiner, Mammoth Hot Springs, and the Northeast Entrance/Cooke City is plowed year-round and open to the public.

Yellowstone Falls

In winter, a number of other Yellowstone roads are open only for snowcoach and snowmobile touring between December 15 and March 15, (weather and snow conditions permitting). The East Entrance will open December 22 and close March 1 for snowmobile and snowcoach travel. Travel over Sylvan Pass on the East Entrance Road will be subject to avalanche-related safety delays and closures.

Visitors wishing to visit the park on a snowmobile or in a snowcoach must either travel by commercial snowcoach or accompany a commercial guide on snowmobiles (private, unguided snowmobiles or snowcoaches are not allowed). Best Available Technology snowmobiles are required, and there is a daily limit on snowmobile and snowcoach entries. Off-road use of snowmobiles and snowcoaches is prohibited.

There are 8 visitor centers in the park as well as every kind of service you will need.  There are numerous lodges and cabins to rent, as well as many campgrounds.  There are stores to purchase food and supplies, and restaurants at all of the lodges.  There are gas stations, boat rental places, horseback riding and llama backpacking trips that can be booked.

On the road with Natasha

Dogs are allowed in the park, but are not allowed on most trails, and cannot be left unattended in cabins, campgrounds or in cars.  So when we went to Yellowstone, with our dog Natasha, we had to take turns hiking out to the different geysers, while the other stayed with the dog.  We did have an incident in the park, or at least, an almost incident.  We were driving a convertible on that trip, and we had Natasha in her car seat in the back, strapped in.  She had doggles to protect her eyes, because the top was down.  We were on one of the main roads through the park when a small heard of buffalo decided to cross right in front of us.  Naturally we stopped to let them go.  Natasha got very excited and started barking.  The head buffalo, a huge guy with enormous horns turned and came right towards our car.  I yelled at my husband to put the top up, but he said that wouldn’t do any good, I had to keep her quiet.  I reached behind me and grabbed her around the mouth and kept her quiet.  Her little eyes were starting to bug out, but she wasn’t barking.  That buffalo came close enough that I could see how red his eyes were.  But once she stopped barking he turned and sauntered away. 

Buffalo in Yellowstone NP

The main attraction in the park is the different geysers.  Some of them go off at regular intervals, some go off irregularly.  There are trails out to the geysers, and most of them do require some hiking to get to them.   The exception to that is Old Faithful, which is right near the Old Faithful Lodge and Cabins, and you can have a seat and wait for it to erupt, which it will do, faithfully.



Bear in Yellowstone NP

You will certainly see some wildlife there also.  We saw quite a few different animals while there.  Besides the buffalo mentioned above, we also saw deer, elk and coyotes, as well as many different kinds of birds.  Bears are quite often spotted.   For safety you should stay away from the wild animals. It is important to stay on the marked paths. Yellowstone's thermal features, rare among the earth's wonders, are extremely fragile. Boardwalks and trails protect you and preserve delicate formations. Scalding water underlies most of the thin, breakable crust. Pools may be near or above the boiling temperature and can cause severe, possibly even fatal, burns.

 
For more information about Yellowstone National Park, the fees, lodging and campgrounds, and how to make reservations for those (which is important as the park is booked well in advance), go to:  http://www.nps.gov/yell/index.htm

We also saw some elk in the park